innerloc carnage broadhead

Innerloc Carnage Mechanical Broadheads | Greatness or Gimmick?

I have to hand it to Innerloc Broadheads. The Carnage mechanical head definitely a cool and innovative-looking head.

I had been wanting to test these for awhile to see if the innovation translated to stellar performance.

So, let’s take a closer look at these heads.

As always, in this testing, I used my Bowtech SR6 set at 72 pounds, 27-inch draw, and a 460-grain Bishop FOC King Arrow.

Innerloc Carnage Broadheads Up Close

Now, the interesting thing about these heads is the way the blades stay together in the closed position. They don’t use an O-ring (i.e. the Afflictor Hybrids). They don’t use a retention clip. So, how do they keep the blades closed until deployment?

They use a sticker.


That’s right. A sticker.

I have to say, it’s creative and different. Not only that, but they have a variety of stickers to choose from. They even have a program on their website where you can design and personalize your own sticker.

innerloc carnage broadheads and sticker
The Innerloc Carnage expandable broadheads use stickers to hold the blades closed.

When it’s in the closed position, the Carnage has nothing exposed. That’s going to fly extremely well. I don’t test mechanical heads for flight because they all fly really well. But for this, I imagine it’s going to fly extremely well. I’d say that’s probably going to be its greatest super power is its flight, in addition to its cut size.

innerloc carnage expandable broadhead with sticker applied
If you’re feeling really patriotic then you can go with this one. And what you do is you just wrap it around the blades. I will say, it’s not super easy, but it’s not rocket science either. Now, you’re ready for the 4th of July.

innerloc carnage in fully open position
Here, we get a good look at the Carnage in a fully open position. The cutting diameter is 1-½ inches, which makes a really nice cut for a 3-blade head. The blades themselves are 0.040 inch thick, so they are thicker than most mechanical blades.
cutting diameter of carnage broadhead
The Carnage has a 1-1/2″ cutting diameter, which is very good.
innerloc carnage in closed position
In the closed position, the blades tuck under like this. Then, with pressure on the tip, the blades are forced back.
innerloc carnage rear deploying
You can see how the blades come out from the back. And so, I would imagine they’re going to fully open upon impact, and you’re going to get that full 1-1/2″of cutting diameter. It’s going to stay that way all the way through, as long as there’s pressure on this little plunger tip.

Now, its durability and its penetration, I wasn’t really sure about. So, I was eager to put this head to the test and see how it performs.

Edge Retention Testing

In the edge retention test I push paper down on the blades of the broadhead after every two strokes of the edge of an Easton Hexx Shaft. This tests how well the blade holds its edge.

easton hexx shaft arrow on blade of innerloc carnage
I ran the shaft of an Easton Hexx shaft across the blade for two strokes and then test. I will do process up to five times.
cutting paper on blades of innerloc carnage
The Carnage was still able to cut paper after 10 strokes of the arrow.

Penetration testing

For the penetration test, I shout the Carnage head into ballistic gel that was fronted with a rubber mat and 1/2″ MDF board.

Cardboard penetration test

In the cardboard penetration test, I shot the Carnage into layered cardboard to see how many layers it could penetrate.

innerloc carnage after cardboard penetration test
The Carnage penetrated through 40 layers. And I might add, you notice how the blades set way back so that point, it’s like a nail, actually is what penetrated through the last several layers. But it did penetrate through the 40th layer.

Ballistic gel test

innerloc carnage penetrating ballistic gel
The Carnage penetrated 7 inches.
rubber mat entrance hole of carnage broadhead
Here, you can see the entrance cut into the rubber mat that fronted the MDF and ballistic gel. Man, it did really well. Those blades perfectly opened and fully deployed upon impact. And you can also see the sticker that came apart there as it impacted.
innerloc carnage broadhead after going through ballistic gel and mdf
Upon further investigation, the Carnage broadhead after going through ballistic gel and mdf was missing one of the blades. It’s rare that a broadhead loses a blade just in this one layer of MDF, but that is exactly what happened. There are only two blades. And it’s not in the gel. You can see the gel only has two blades cut into it. I found it behind the rubber mat layer. It broke off at the pin that holds the blade in place.

Because the Carnage lost a blade, I never even got to where I tested it by shooting it into MDF (up to 5 times).

Final thoughts on the Innerloc Carnage

So, what do you think of the Innerloc Carnage?

I will say, I thought it was pretty gimmicky at first, but it definitely has some strengths, such as its super low profile in flight, which makes it forgiving, its large cut, and its easy-open rear deploying blades.

But, it also has some weaknesses.

I question how well it’s going to do on angled shots because it has such a wide flared tip without anything to really grab upon.

But, the biggest weakness is its durability. You saw what it did in the 1/2-inch of MDF when it lost a blade. I did the test again, just to be sure… this time it lost two blades. There’s just an inherent flaw in that pin that holds the blades together. It just seems to be breaking in some way.

So, I know a number of people have used these heads and hey, more power to you if you really like them.

But, I’ll tell you this, the Carnage is not going to make it in my quiver. But, check out the scores below and see what you think and see how it did in the areas that matter most to you.

Best of luck in your hunting adventures!

innerloc carnage testing scorecard
Here is the final score card for the Innerloc Carnage broadhead.

dirt nap drt broadheads review header image

Dirt Nap DRT Broadheads | Fabulous Fixed-Blade?

The Dirt Nap DRT broadhead just looks cool.

You can even get different colors.

But, how will it perform when I put it through my battery of tests for long-range flight, edge sharpness and edge retention, penetration, and durability? Well, let’s find out!

dirt nap drt broadhead
The Dirt Nap DRT broadhead.

I was eager to put the Dirt Nap DRT broadhead through all the tests that I do. So, let’s see how the Dirt Nap DRT performed!

The Dirt Nap DRT broadhead up close and personal

The DRT head has a cutting diameter of 1-3/16-inches in one direction, but it also has a 5/8-inch crosscut, which is going to cut a healthy amount of tissue. It should open up a decent wound channel.

The blades are 420J2 stainless steel 0.051 inch thick. They are not replaceable, but they are pretty thick.

The ferrule is made out of 7075 aluminum, which is a pretty stout aluminum. And this comes in 100 and/or 125-grain due to a removable washer that makes up the extra 25 grains.

If you keep the washer on, and you have a 125-grain head. Take it out, and you now have a 100-grain head. So, in a sense, it’s modular.

dirt nap drt broadhead cutting diameter
The DRT has a diameter in one direction of 1-3/16 inches.
dirt nap drt broadhead bleeders diameter
The cutting diameter of the bleeder blades is 5/8-of-an-inch.
dirt nap drt broadhead with 25 grain collar
The DRT has a 25-grain collar, that if kept on the head, makes it 125 total grains (if you’re looking for a heavier setup).

Long-range flight of the DRT

In my long-range flight accuracy test, I was able to shoot the DRT head and pop a balloon from 70 yards.

Out-of-the-box sharpness test

In the out-of-the-box sharpness test, I give the blades of the head I am testing a stroke from a carbon arrow shaft and then see if the blade can still cut paper (up to 5 strokes of the arrow).

a carbon arrow shaft going over the blade of a dirt nap drt broadhead
I run a carbon arrow shaft across the blades of the broadhead I am testing to see how the blades cut paper after being dulled in this manner.
dirt nap drt broadhead cutting paper while testing sharpness
The Dirt Nap cut paper after all 5 strokes of the arrow.

DRT penetration test

In my penetration test, I shot the DRT into a block of ballistic gel that was fronted with 1/2″ MDF board.

dirt nap drt broadhead penetrating nine inches through ballistic gel
The Dirt Nap penetrated 9 inches, almost as far as the Magnus Buzzcut.

Durability testing

In the durability test, I shot the DRT into a .22-gauge steel plate (up to five times) to test how well the head would hold up.

dirt nap drt broadhead after going through steel plate
Here’s the Dirt Nap after going through the steel plate five times. And, on the positive side, the blades didn’t really fold over or break or bent terribly or come out of the ferrule. It all stayed intact. On the negative side, the blades did get really dinged up, and that was after the third shot. I would have had to call it for score purposes that it would have to be replaced at that point because they’re beyond just being able to be filed out.

Overall, the DRT did relatively well. And the holes themselves, you can see that nice hole, better than a 2-blade would be because you get that crosscut in there as well.

Final thoughts on the Dirt Nap DRT heads

Performance really matters with broadheads. So, what do you think of the Dirt Nap DRT? It definitely performed better than what I was expecting.

You can compare the scores to other heads in similar categories.

But, I will say the Dirt Nap DRT broadhead is definitely worth checking out. I can see why a lot of people really like it.

dirt nap drt broadhead testing scorecard
Here is the scorecard for the DRT

Other fixed-blade reviews:

arrow building header image

Arrow Building 101 | How to make your own bowhunting arrows

Are you looking for tips on how to build your own bowhunting arrows? Well, you’ve come to the right place.

We’ll walk you through the process step-by-step so you can start enjoying the process of arrow building.

Before building your own arrows, it’s important to be sure you have selecting an arrow shaft that is appropriate for your setup. What poundage you are pulling back and what forward-of-center % (FOC) you are looking to get from your arrow are a few factors. So, you may want to consult your local bow shop before purchasing your bare shafts.

Arrow Building | What you’ll need to build your own arrows

Before you get started with arrow building, there are some items you will need to get started:

Once you have decided on and purchased your arrow shafts, you are ready to start building! If purchasing Sirius arrow shafts (including arrow spinners and adhesives), use code N1Outdoors during checkout for a 12% discount!

How to build your own arrows step-by-step

30 minutes per arrow 30 minutes.

Here, we’ll walk you through the step-by-step process here of building your own hunting arrows (plan on about 30 minutes per arrow:

  1. Spin your arrow shafts

    Before we get to cutting our arrow shafts, we want to spin them to see which end of the arrow needs to be cut. Use an arrow spin tester and spin your arrow (test both ends). Watch the ends of the shafts as they spin. Whichever side is more wobbly is the end you want to cut on. Make a mark on the end of the shaft that you will cut, just to be sure you cut the correct end.

    .spin tester spinning arrows

  2. Cut arrow shafts

    [IMPORTANT: BEFORE you cut your arrow shafts, be sure you know exactly how long the shafts need to be. You want to be sure you have accounted for the length that the nock will add to the shaft and also be sure your arrow will be long enough that your fingers will not be cut by the broadheads when you shoot!]

    Set your arrow saw guide to the correct length. When cutting your shafts, be sure to “roll” the shaft as you cut.

    cutting arrow shaft

  3. Mark the ends of your arrow shaft

    After cutting your arrow shafts to length, use a sharpie or other marker to make a mark around the top edge of the shafts.

    marking the end of arrow shaft when arrow building

  4. Square the ends of the arrow shaft

    Using an arrow squaring tool, sand down the tops of the shafts until all the marker is sanded away. Squaring the ends of your arrows is critical to achieving the best arrow flight possible.

    squaring the ends of an arrow shaft

  5. Clean arrow shafts

    Next, you need to clean the dust/debris left over from squaring the shafts. Take a Q-Tip, dip it in acetone or denatured alcohol, and clean the top edge and inside of the front of the arrow shafts.

    cleaning ends of arrow shaft with q-tip and acetone

  6. Heat arrow insert

    Screw in a field point to the insert you will be using and hold field point with a pair of pliers. Using your butane torch, heat up the insert (it only takes a few seconds of heat, but it takes a few more seconds for the heat to work its way through the insert).

    heating arrow insert with butane torch when arrow building

  7. Apply cool melt to insert

    Once you have heated the insert, apply the cool melt to your insert. (do not put the cool melt directly in the flame). If it the cool melt doesn’t melt when touching it to the insert, heat the insert some more.

    applying cool melt to arrow insert

  8. Load arrow inserts

    After coating the insert with the cool melt, insert it into the end of the arrow shaft that you cut while slowly rotating. The rotation will ensure that the cool melt will full coat the inside of the shaft, resulting in better adhesion.

    inserting arrow into arrow shaft

  9. Cool the arrow shaft

    After inserting the insert that you coated in the cool melt, dip the tip of the arrow in the cup of cold water.

    dipping arrow shaft into cold water

  10. Remove excess cool melt

    Once you have cooled down the arrow shaft, you can peel off the excess cool melt from around the insert.

    remove the excess cool melt from arrow shaft after cooling

  11. Apply arrow wraps (optional)

    If you like to apply arrow wraps to your shafts for added color, ease of fletching, or nock tuning, follow these instructions.

    Lay a hot pad or mouse pad on a hard surface. Lay the arrow wrap on the pad with the adhesive side up. (The mouse pad/hot pad has some “give” to it, which allows you to press down and apply even pressure, making the wrap application a little easier.)

    Lay the arrow shaft on the pad, parallel to the long edge of the arrow wrap. Line up the nock end of the arrow shaft with the end of the wrap. Once you have it lined up, slowly roll the arrow shaft forward over top of the wrap, applying even pressure, until it meets the other edge.

    apply arrows wraps to shafts

  12. Insert the nock

    Insert your standard or lighted nock into the end of the shaft.

    insert lighted nock into arrow shaft when arrow building

  13. Bare shaft tune your arrow (optional)

    If you want to ensure that you will get the best arrow flight possible, it’s a good idea to nock tune your arrows through paper. (this is where the N-Tune arrow wrap is extremely helpful).

    bare shaft tuning arrows through paper when arrow building

  14. Fletch arrows

    If you are going to fletch your own arrows, you will need a fletching jig. There are several brands of jigs available, but for the purposes of this illustration, we are using the Bitzenburger jig.
    NOTE: If you have bare shaft tuned your arrows, be sure to fletch your arrows so that when nocking your arrow, the mark you made on your arrow shaft during bare shaft tuning is facing up and that your fletchings will clear your rest and bow cables.)

    Place you vane in the jig clamp and apply primer to the vane (if necessary for your vane type). Then apply fletching glue/adhesive to the vane.
    NOTE: Be sure to mark on the jig clamp how high up you want the bottom of your vane to be on the shaft. Then, line up the bottom of all vanes with that mark when fletching.

    Seat the bottom of the clamp on the base of the jig and then gently press the jig clamp down onto the arrow shaft. Hold the clamp and the shaft together with light pressure for 10 seconds or so to ensure you get good adhesion between shaft and vane. Let the vane (still in clamp) dry for 5-15 minutes. Then, remove clamp, rotate knob on jig. Then use this same process for the second and third/fourth vanes.

    fletching arrows with bitzenburger jig

  15. FOBS (alternative to fletching)

    If you are using FOBS instead of fletchings, simply apply the FOB to the end of the arrow shaft and insert the nock and you are finished!)

    installing fob in arrow shaft

  16. Seal ends of vanes

    Once you have finished fletching your arrows, be sure to dab a small drop of adhesive on both ends of each vane, to seal them so that the vanes will not rip off when passing through an animal or target.

    sealing the ends of the vanes when arrow building

You’re all done! Now you have arrows that are ready to send down range! If you need help knowing what kind of broadhead to choose before your next hunt, be sure to check out our all-encompassing broadheads article!

We hope you put a hole N1!

Giles Canter of N1 outdoors with archery buck
Giles Canter of N1 Outdoors