In this review, I tested three models of the Crimson Talon broadheads.
Crimson Talon makes the G2, the G2 Hyper Speed and the Outlaw.
The G2 Broadhead Specs
First we have the G2. It has a camouflage ferrule that they refer to as “ferruleflage.”
What initially stands out about the G2 is that it has six total blades – three main blades and three bleeders.
The main blade’s diameter is 1.25 inches, which is a big cutting diameter for a 3-blade head.
The cutting diameter of the smaller bleeder blades is 1/2 an inch. So, although they are shorter, they help with the cut.
The total cut of this head is 2.6 inches!
The bleeders are also offset at a 60-degree angle, so that allows them to create an even better wound channel and do damage that is difficult to close up.
But the biggest differentiating factor on the G2 broadhead is that the main blades are curved. This apparently creates two advantages…
The other advantage of the curved blades is that once they hit the animal, they continue to rotate, causing a spiral wound channel. Combine that with the 1.25 inches of cutting diameter and 2.6 inches of blade cutting, and that creates a wound channel that is very difficult to close up.
The tip is made out of A2 tool steel, so a really tough, beefy chisel tip of a very high quality steel. The ferrule is 7075 aluminum, which is a very stout, durable aluminum, stronger than some steels.
The blades of the G2 broadhead are 420 G2 stainless steel. The main blades were 0.028 inches thick, which is relatively thick compared to some other blades. But, with so much blade cutting action going on, that probably isn’t going to be an issue.
Crimson Talon calls this curved blade feature their “spintite” airfoil technology. As the arrow flies, the curved blades function as vanes or fletchings would, creating quick rotation of the shaft, which results in more accurate flight. This is supposed to prevent arrow planing.
We’ll see how it does in the durability test below.
One of the cool things about all of the Crimson Talon broadheads is that they have 100% lifetime warranty for any breakage, for any reason, with no expiration and no limitations. So, if any of these heads break, you just send them in and you get a replacement. That’s pretty nice especially at the price point that they are sold at.
G2 Hyper Speed Specs
The next broadhead I tested was the G2 Hyperspeed. It’s the same head as the G2, but without the airfoil design. So, the blades are all straight.
Now, the bleeders are still offset at a 60-degree angle, but everything is just a straight blade. Some people that don’t want the airfoil designs will like this head.
I remember when I lived in Colorado, the Crimson Talons were illegal (at least at that time) because the blades had to exist in a continual single plane. They couldn’t be curved.
The Outlaw Specs
The last Crimson Talon head I tested was The Outlaw.
The Outlaw is it’s really basic in some ways and unique in others. It’s basic in the sense that it’s a 3-blade head with a 1-1/8 inch cut. It’s a little bit different in that all three blades are offset. The 0.040 inch thick, stainless steel blades are an offset design, to create a better wound channel.
The tip is hard stainless steel and the ferrule is solid titanium. It also has a 3-blade locking system, keeping the blades in three different places, which is supposed to make these heads very durable and have really good blade retention.
Crimson Talon Broadhead Testing
I was eager to put all of these heads to the test.
I tested them for flight, edge retention, sharpness, penetration and durability.
Let’s see how this Crimson Talon lineup performed.
All three of the Crimson Talon heads were able to pop a balloon at 70 yards.
Edge retention results (out-of-the-box sharpness)
For the Crimson Talon G2, I just tested the sharpness and edge retention of the straight blades (Hyperspeed), because it’s too difficult to get it all lined up with the curved blades and they are the same blades anyway.
Penetration results (ballistic gel)
Penetration (steel plate)
If you look at the holes that the heads made in the steel plate, it’s really interesting. You can see that the Hyperspeed (top right) made the most impressive holes. It made really big, triangular holes with extra wide cuts in the tips.
Edge Retention (steel plate)
Now, in terms of the edge retention and the durability of the blades themselves after going through the steel plate; again, all of them stayed intact. None of them bent out of shape. But, all of them did get really nicked up.
The one that probably got the most nicked up was the G2. Because of those curved blades, the head hits the steel in a new place each time as it curves around. And so, those edges would have had to be replaced after probably the third or fourth shot. But they still held intact. You can imagine there might be some damage when coming in contact with a rib, shoulder or other bones of a deer.
The Outlaw has the thickest blade, so they took a big brunt of the impact on the steel and they got next most nicked up (although the tip held together perfectly and the A2 tip on the G2 and on the Hyperspeed look brand new).
The Hyperspeed got the least amount of damage on the blades. It made it through four times before it would have had to be replaced. So, it stayed in relatively good shape. Some of the blades were still perfectly intact and some were nicked up.
So overall, really impressed and surprised with the durability of these heads.
So what do you think of the Crimson Talons? I’ve got to say, I was really impressed.
If I had to pick a winner between them, it would definitely be between the G2 and the G2 Hyperspeed. And which one would be the winner would be based on my setup and on what animal I’m pursuing.
When I first saw the price point looked at the heads, I thought, “Man, these things are going to fall apart.” I just thought they were kind of cheap. But man, I was wrong! They really did perform in each one of the tests that I did on them. I was pleasantly surprised. So, you can check out the score sheets below and see how they rank compared to each other and compared to other heads.
If I’m going after a really big animal or I have a lighter setup where I need to maximize penetration, then I’m going with the Hyperspeed.
In this review, I tested the Ozcut Hurricane broadheads.
Ozcut is a company outside of Australia and the time of this review, they are a relatively new company. I’ve been intrigued by these broadheads and was excited to test them out.
I have a passion for single bevel heads. So, I love it when someone comes out with a single bevel, 3-blade head.
Now, I’ve seen some other single bevel multi-blade heads that had some design flaws that prevented them from getting the full benefit of the single bevel.
However, I was intrigued by this one for a few reasons that we’ll get into right now.
My Initial Impression of the Ozcut Hurricane
First of all, the Hurricane is one piece, solid construction, and made out high-carbon steel.
The blades are really thick. And, for a single bevel to be of a benefit, they need to be thick like that.
There’s a nice tanto tip, so it’s a really durable tip and the back of the blades are sharpened. So, if it doesn’t go all the way through the animal, that head is going to stay in there doing some cutting. It also makes it easier to pull them out of your target.
So, there’s a lot about this head that I really like. I did some of my normal testing. I shot it through a couple of different layers of MDF with a rubber foam mat in the front. I also shot it at long distance. And, I shot it through some steel as well as into a cinder block. I also shot into ballistic gel to test rotation.
So, let’s see how the head holds up, how it penetrates, and how it does in this testing.
The cutting diameter on the Ozcut Hurricane broadhead is 1-1/16 inches.
The Ozcut Hurricane flew exceptionally well in the long-range shot testing. I was able to pop a balloon at 80 yards with ease.
The first penetration test was through MDF boards that had a layer of foam matting in front of them…
Steel Plate Penetration Test
In the next penetration test, I shot the Ozcut Hurricane into a steel plate, followed by a layer of MDF behind it.
Cinder Block Test
Because it’s a solid machine broadhead, I shot the Hurricane into a concrete block. Not many heads have held up really well through this. the Bishop held up well, and also the Iron Will. The Tooth of the Arrow broadheads, Exodus, and A-TAC broadheads also held up quite well.
Let’s see how the Ozcut does.
Ballistic Gel Test
I was curious to see how the rotation of the Hurricane would do in a ballistic gel. So, I shot it into the ballistic gel (below). I also had some MDF behind it.
In this test, I compared it to a single bevel, 2-blade head, the Bishop Scientific Method to see how it rotates in the same medium. I also compared it to the Exodus broadheads.
Final thoughts on the Ozcut Hurricane
So there you have it, the Ozcut Hurricane. This broadhead is a winner. There’s a lot I really like about it. It flies really well.
They say the single bevel design helps to speed up the rotation. I can’t verify that because I can’t quantify the rotation. But, I can tell you, I shoot a lot of single-bevel heads at long range and man, this one was really easy to pop balloons with. It was automatic.
This head is right up there with the A-TAC. It just flies really well.
This head also penetrates really well. You can see through all those mediums and where it rotated really well through the gel. You could see that S-cut in the steel and see it starting into the wood as well.
There are two things about this head that I think they could have done differently.
What could have made it like even better is using a higher quality steel. Not that this is bad – it’s a good machined head, out of a solid chunk of carbon steel. But, when you’re using a single bevel broadhead, the rotational force and the pressure that is put on that one blade angle is intense. This calls for premium steel.
Ever wanted to make your own lighted nocks instead of spending a small fortune on the ones in the store or online? Well, I am going to show you step-by-step how to make your own lighted nocks for bowhunting.
Advantages of lighted nocks
Bowhunters understand that arrows and broadheads can be expensive. On top of that, you never want to lose the animal you just shot.
Now, if you lose your broadhead, your arrow, and your quarry, this can cause full-blown bowhunter’s depression.
That’s where lighted nocks come in.
They can help you not only find your arrow in low light conditions, but in the event that you don’t get a pass-through shot, you will be able to get a better visual on where your deer or other game runs after impact.
Arrow nocks (NAP and Carbon Express Launchpad precision nocks both sell nocks with a diameter large enough to house most bobber lights. They also tend to have a longer shaft, which gives you more room to house the bobber light).
Sand paper (100-grit works great)
PVC pipe cutters or box cutter blade
Time needed: 2 hours.
Step-by-step instructions to make your own lighted nocks:
Remove (cut off) the back of an existing nock
So the first thing we want to do is remove the back of an existing nock with the pvc pipe cutters. Be sure to cut evenly cut all the way around so there’s not a burr on it (if you get a burr, you can use the sandpaper to smooth it out).
Be sure the end of the cut nock fits into the arrow shaft
Once you have cut the end off of this nock, be sure it fits in shaft snugly. If you have a burr from cutting it, use the sandpaper to smooth it out.
You want this part to be a tight fit in the arrow shaft, because whenever you get this inserted, you don’t want it to move back and forth when you’re pulling on the back of the full nock.
Super glue the bobber light bottom into the back of the cut nock
Put some super glue on the bottom end of the bobber light battery. Slowly insert the bottom of the bobber light into the cut nock.
Seal the bottom of bottom end of nock
Put a small bead of super glue on the open end of the cut nock to seal it. You can then set that bottom onto a paper plate to let it dry (2 hours).
Super glue lighted end of bobber light into the full arrow nock
Carefully put a bead of super glue aright around the top of the lighted part of the bobber light.
Be careful not to get glue in between the lighted portion and the battery part of the bobber light. (This would glue the two parts together and prevent the light from coming on when the string impacts the nock).
When finished, let that part dry 2 hours.
Be sure a regular nock will twist easily inside arrow shaft
BEFORE inserting the finished lighted nocks into the shaft, take one of your nocks that does not have a bobber light in it yet and be sure that when you insert it into your arrow, that you can still twist/move it back and forth fairly easily.
If it’s too stiff to move/twist, then take your sandpaper and lightly sand around the long part that goes into the arrow shaft (NOT the cut end) until it moves well enough for you to be able twist it fairly easily with your fingers.
Align nock with arrow fletchings
If you use a rest that requires your fletchings to be pointed a certain direction, be sure you insert the nock in such a way that you will achieve the proper alignment of your arrow with your rest.
Insert finished nock into arrow shaft
Once both ends of the lighted nock have dried, and you’ve also sanded the light nocks well enough for the string end of your nocks to move/twist easily, insert the lighted nock into your arrow shaft.
Test and shoot
Once you have inserted the nock into the shaft, test it by pressing on it to turn the light on, and then untwist the nock until it turns off. Then you’re ready to shoot!
(NOTE: you may need to do some fine tuning of your site, as the added weight at the end of the arrow may slightly impact your current bow site settings.