Clear a fair amount of space on a flat, dry surface. A mouse pad or thin hot pad works well when laid on the flat surface, as it can provide some cushioning, which will help you be able to apply even pressure during the application process.
Remove arrow wrap from paper backing and lay down with adhesive side up
Remove an arrow wrap from the paper backing. Do your best to only touch the very corner of the wrap, to avoid getting oil and dirt from your hands on the adhesive part of the wrap, which would reduce how well it sticks to the arrow shaft (you could use just your fingernail or even tweezers).
Clean the bare shaft of your arrow
You want to be sure that you clean the surface of your arrow’s shaft where you’re going to be applying the arrow wrap. Clean it with a denatured alcohol or acetone. Now, fingernail polish remover does have acetone in it, however it sometimes also has things like vitamin E and other chemicals and oils in it that could prevent the arrow wrap from adhering properly to the shaft. So, even though some of you really love your arrows, we promise vitamin E will not help your carbon arrow shafts! So, it’s a better idea to use denatured alcohol or acetone.
Align the wrap properly with the arrow shaft
Ensuring that the arrow wrap is not applied crooked is actually easy to do. Lay your arrow shaft down beside the wrap that you have laid down (adhesive side up) on the mouse pad/flat surface. Be sure that the shaft is parallel to the edge of the arrow wrap. Be sure the arrow shaft is close to the edge of the arrow wrap without touching it. This will help you in being sure it is lying parallel.
Apply the wrap (roll)
Once you have the arrow shaft parallel to the wrap, simply roll the shaft toward the wrap (while applying even, downward pressure to ensure that the entire shaft surface contacts the wrap). Be sure to apply firm pressure to the seam of the wrap so that you will get good adhesion. Now, you will have a perfectly applied arrow wrap! Now, you are ready to insert a nock and begin paper tuning your bare shaft!
You most likely found your way here because you are interested in how the TruGlo Broadheads perform.
Well, you’re in luck, because in this review, I tested the TruGlo Fixed Blade Titanium 3 Blade Head.
A Closeup Look At The TruGlo Titanium X 3-Blade
So let’s zoom on in here. Check out some of the designs features and specifications and then put this Truglo to the test.
Here’s a good look at the head close up. Pretty cool-looking head. It is 100 grains. It’s a 3-blade head with replaceable blades. .
Each of the blades are 0.031 inch thick, so they’re relatively thin compared to a lot of other heads on the market.
And the cutting diameter is 1-3/16 inches, so that’s a little wider than a typical 1-1/8 inch cut, but not as wide as the 1-1/4 inch cut of the QAD Exodusbroadhead.
You will notice that the blades have quite a bit of venting to them. There’s also a little bit of gap that goes between the blades and the ferrule, so a little bit of extra venting there. I’m not used to seeing so much gap in there. It made me wonder how secure the blade lock was going to be.
The ferrule is a one piece construction. The whole ferrule as well as the tip, is CNC machined out of titanium grade 5. Titanium is a great material to use when you’re trying to get good strength, while still cutting back on the weight. So, it’s a little bit stronger than most of the aluminums, a lot lighter than most of the steels, and can even be a bit stronger than some steels.
I was eager to put the Titanium X 3-blade broadheads to the test and see how they would perform. So, let’s see how they did!
For these tests, I used my Bowtech SR6 set at 72 poundsand Bishop FOC King Arrows for most of the shooting. But, for the really hard impact shots, I used the Bishop FAD Eliminators because they are just so tough.
I shot one field point (right) and two broadheads (inside circles) into my target at 40 yards and here were the results.
I shot the Titanium X into a 22 gauge steel plate to see how well it would hold up.
Here’s the Truglo 3-Blade that is now a 2-blade. And what happened is on the very first shot into the 22-gauge steel plate, it lost a blade. I’m not sure what happened to it. I couldn’t recover it because it was just gone inside my target.
The other twoblades are in decent shape, one of them got a little bit nicked up. And again, that’s just after one shot. The other blade didn’t get very nicked up at all. The tip got blunted a bit after one shot. So this is definitely one of the weaker fixed blade heads that I’ve tested.
Here’s a good look at the wound channel and you can see that it’s a hole with 3 slits as opposed to a triangular hole like some broadheads make. And, you can see that blade on the left is the one that was broken because it didn’t get quite the total cut that the other two blades did.
I shot the head into a concrete block to see if it could take the impact…
Here’s the Truglo after impacting the concrete. The blades barely touched the concrete, and they got nicked-up where they hit the concrete.
The tip held together fairly well, but you can see it now has somewhat of a “hook” to it and is curled over quite a bit. So, it’s definitely not reusable. However, overall as a head, it held together fairly well.
It certainly has its strengths, and I’m sure it can get the job done in most bowhunting situations. I know a lot of people have used it and really liked it. It’s not very expensive so it’s a decent value as well for what it is.
However, I have to be honest… I think if you’re looking for a head like this, there are a lot better choices on the market.
But, you check out the score sheet below and see the data points that I provided there and see what matters to you the most. Compare those scores to other similarly designed heads and see which one is the right one for you.
For the price-conscience backpacker, the Soto WindMaster is not only affordable but super light, weighing in at only three ounces.
Our pick for the most efficient backpacking stove for the price is the Soto Windmaster.
For what you get, the Windmaster is a very affordable backpacking stove.
When a normal backpacking stove is faced with strong wind, the light will either go out, or the flame is so altered that cooking is slowed dramatically. But, as the name implies, the Windmaster is made to work well during high winds.
The stove itself is just three ounces, which is super light. The only other weight would be the isobutane or propane bottle that screws into the bottom of the bracket.
The brackets on the burner are not the best, but you are reducing weight, which is a plus for backpacking.
If you are trying to save a lot of weight and may be hiking in windy areas, the Soto WindMaster is for you.
The BRS Ultralight Burner iscertainly super light, but is often outperformed by other backpacking stoves on the market.
One of the more unique offerings is the BRS Ultralight Camping Burner.
This “stove” is not the whole setup, but rather an attachment that goes on top of a propane bottle.
This helps you save money and overall weight. However, while you might be saving money, you may also be sacrificing better performance that can be found in other backpacking stoves.
The Ultralight requires a source of fuel. This burner screws right to the top of a fuel bottle, and you can then add your pot or anything else being cooked. The attachment is not super strong, but it is just about as light as it gets.
The Solo Stove is a steel cylinder that holds small pieces of wood and has air intake holes on the bottom to help you regulate temperature and steady burning.
This is a very light option, coming in at just nine ounces. Although you will save weight in your pack by not using fuel, you will need to either pack in wood or camp in areas with reliable wood sources.
Be careful how this is used, as many places will not allow campfires because of droughts and wildfire hazards. This probably does not classify as a “campfire,” but whenever using a live flame, it is best to check with someone and make sure it is okay to do so.