Check out the FIVE archery video tips below to get valuable information on how you can be sure you have an arrow that’s “Just Pass’N Through!”
Bow Hunting Tips: #1 – Bow Maintenance | Avoid Freak Accidents Like This One…
When you see this freak archery accident, you’ll want to learn what you can do to help prevent the possibility of it ever happening to you.
Bow hunting is more than just flinging arrows. bow maintenance checks in the off-season, as well as before your hunt, are an extremely important part of being sure you are able to bow hunt safely and avoiding injury.
In the first of our bow hunting tips, we’ve got details on how to do preventative bow maintenance, so you can avoid unnecessary accidents like this one when shooting your bow…
If you watched the above video, you’ll understand why bow maintenance is an important part of bow hunting.
Some of you are shooting your bow year round, but some of you put it into storage during the off season and because the temperatures can change in those environments, it’s very important to check bowstrings cables as well as your limbs before shooting.
Here are some things you should check before you shoot your bow:
Be sure before every shoot that you check your strings and your cables for any signs of wear or fraying. Anything like that can be a potential for a broken string or cable during a hunt just like in the video above.
Be sure you check your limbs very carefully. You want to be sure there’s no signs of splintering, bubbling, or cracking. Extreme temperatures and sometimes even storage can cause limbs to weaken. And, you don’t want to have one of those limbs be damaged or break during a shoot.
Be sure all your screws and any bolts are tightened properly, so that you don’t have any of your accessories loose during a shoot.
Check your cams. Be sure you don’t have any nics or cuts that would affect your string in any way, whether it be to cause a fraying or a cutting of the string, or else damage to a cam, where your string may actually even come off the track.
Be sure your rest is aligned properly.
Check cam rotation and be sure the cams are not warped and that they both reach letoff at the same exact time.
Tip #4 – Hunting Stances Can Make Or Break A Bow Hunt [So, Know Them All!]
In the below N1 Minute archery tips video, learn about various stances that can help you in all types of bow hunting scenarios.
For those of you who have bow hunted any amount of time, you know that some things can happen during a hunt that simple target practice can’t prepare you for. The video above will show you some archery tips to help you be best prepared when your moment of truth comes.
Here’s a simple tip to keep those muscles active after hunting season and all it takes is a simple exercise band.
So many hunters put away their bows, after the fall, through winter, until turkey season. With, one of these exercise bands, you can practice your draw cycle throughout the winter and make that first draw in the spring a little easier.
Simply grasp one end of the band with your front hand and with your drawing hand, pull the band back to your anchor point. Repeat this ten to fifteen times and then switch hands. This will work both your back and shoulders. A few sets of this draw cycle exercise a day, and you’ll be ready to hit the mark on your next 3D shoot or Spring turkey hunt.
Tip #6: Guessing Is Gambling [Scout Instead!]
Everyone has things going on in life. Whether it’s work, family or other obligations, sometimes it’s hard to make time to scout. Then, before you know it, deer season sneaks up on you and you find yourself scrambling to grab your bowhunting gear and get in a tree or blind.
Or, maybe you’re just tempted to get in the same stand you always hunt and hope for the best.
Sure, there’s always a story of this happening… but the reality is you need to put in the work before the season ever starts to increase your chances of taking a deer or other game.
Don’t gamble when you bowhunt. Scout prior to the hunt so you can put yourself in a position to be successful.
Basic trailcams have become much less expensive in recent years, so save your pennies and get a couple of these helpful scouting tools and place them overlooking scrapes or on know travel corridors to and from bedding and food sources. Y
Trail cam pictures can you give you insight into deer patterns and how they coincide to time of day, time of year, weather and food/water source availability. This will help you make decisions on where to hang that deer stand or blind.
As discussed in our earlier tips, having properly functioning equipment and being proficient with it is critical. However, it can all be for nothing if you don’t practice scent control.
You will be hunting deer and other animals on their home turf. They have the upper hand and their noses are a big reason why. Not only are they at an advantage – but you’re bowhunting – so, you need to be able to get much closer to the animal than you would if you were rifle hunting.
So, the bottom line is that you need to smell as little like – well, YOU – as possible!
Don’t give a deer’s nose a reason to tell it to run away. Make every effort to be as scent-free as possible.
There are plenty of scent-free and scent-control soaps and detergents available at your local sporting goods store. You can also wash your clothes in baking soda. Then, store your clothes in a scent free bag or container.
On the day of your hunt, avoid coming in contact with any scent that would smell unnatural to a deer’s nose. Yes, that means you might need to skip the steaming hot sausage biscuit run or the pre-hunt cigarette before the hunt.
Tip #8: Entry And Exit Routes [They Can Make Or Break Your Hunt]
When you’re bowhunting, it’s easy sometimes to get focused on where you’re going to hunt.
But, you need to spend just as much time planning how you’re going to get to that magic hunting location that will put you in the best spot for a harvest. But, you need to spend just as much time planning how you’re going to get to and from that magic spot also.
So, if the deer or other game see, smell or hear “danger” as it goes to and/or from the magic hunting spot, they aren’t going to stick around and stand quartering away for you to put an arrow through the boiler room.
So, how can you avoid being busted on your way to and from your hunting location?
First of all, as we’ve already covered, you must do everything you can to be scent free and you must always pay attention to the wind direction. You don’t want your scent blown to where you expect the deer to be on your way in.
The same goes for exiting your hunting location. If deer bust you leaving your hunting location, they will associate that location with potential danger and you may not get another chance at them there.
So, be sure to plan your entry and exit routes so that you stay downwind of the where you know the deer or game to be. This can greatly increase your odds of slipping in and out as undetected as possible.
Taking an ethical shot is such an important part of bowhunting. Take a shot that gives you the best chance at a quick and clean kill.
This isn’t always easy when bowhunting. So, that’s why it’s so important to have followed the pre-hunt bowhunting tips in #1-5 that we covered, so that when the moment of truth comes, you know you are ready.
You don’t want the animal to suffer and you also want to be sure you are shooting at the deer or game so that you can have as quick and humane kill as possible.
We couldn’t leave out number 10, could we. After all, you’ve put in the work getting proficient with your bow and you’ve worked hard to get yourself in position to successfully take an animal. So, when you finally do it, you’ve got to celebrate the moment!
And, there’s no better way to do that than with family and friends.
Celebrate! It’s one of the best bowhunting tips we can give you…
That’s why we say here at N1 Outdoors: Where the moments happen, we’ll meet you there!
Happy hunting… we hope you have found our bow hunting tips to be useful in your quest to become better at your craft.
A hollow-body frog is a great option where there is vegetation or other potential for snags on the surface of the water.(Photo: Drew Pierce)
“Frogging” is one of the most popular topwater strategies, as big bass love to munch on frogs. This is especially true in areas with algae, lily pads, and other things on the surface. Because the hooks are tucked into the backside of the lure body, you will not snag everything you hit on the surface.
We specifically denote the hollow-body variation because it is the most common and easy to use. There are other types of topwater frogs, but this one tends to be the most versatile.
Companies like Scum Frog and Booyah do a great job of crafting hollow-body frogs. Once you can learn to walk the frog, the bites will come in full force.
Poppers, when jerked, throw water in a forward motion, creating water disturbance that get bass’ attention. (Photo: Drew Pierce)
Especially for smallmouth, poppers are great topwater lures that provide more extreme action. Rather than being subtle with your action, poppers are made to throw water forward and cause a disturbance on the surface.
These are hard-bodied lures that feature two treble hooks on the bottom. The cupped mouth allows for the popping of water. With this build, it is perfect in open, clear water as it will not work correctly if it comes in contact with items on the surface.
The Jitterbug is a topwater classic that mimics bugs on the water’s surface. (photo: Northwoods Lures)
A lure that is somewhat similar to a popper is the Jitterbug.
The classic Jitterbug is made by Arbogast, and has a bit of a different action from it’s cousin, the popper.
The Jitterbug features a couple-cupped front lip. This gives the Jitterbug a back-and-forth motion, so it can be used with a steady cadence.
Jitterbugs are also a bit smaller and chunkier than poppers, so they are good about imitating bugs that are warbling on the surface. Black and green is a really popular color for the Jitterbug, so keep that in mind.
Believe it or not, the colors of your topwater lure do matter when it comes to fishing for bass.
It might seem useless to put thought into the color because the bass are below and you might be thinking they can’t tell the differnece. That is not the case.
You need to put some thought into the colors of your lures and mix them up if something is not working. If a certain frog has an unappealing shade when the bite is slow, mix things up and it might get the job done.
Color is an important factor in choosing the right topwater lure for the situation. Don’t be afraid to mix things (and colors) up!
Thanks for checking out my review of the G5 Striker X broadhead.
In this review, thanks to a friend who sent me a test pack, I tested a really popular broadhead that I’ve gotten a lot of requests about. I hope this review is of benefit to the bowhunting community!
The G5 Striker X Up Close…
Let’s take a close look at the G5 Striker X.
The G5 Striker X is all-steel construction with a steel ferrule, steel tip, and steel replaceable blades. By my measurements, the blades are 0.032 inches thick based on the measurements with my micrometer.
You’ll notice that the blades of the Striker X are fairly vented. That’s going to make them probably a little bit loud in flight, which doesn’t really bother me in a broadhead. Arrow noise has really never bothered me and I’ve taken animals all over the world.
The fact that the blades of the Striker X are so vented could spell problems for durability, so we’ll dive into that in our testing.
Notice the dimple and the “scooped” ferrule on the Striker X broadhead.
Now, the tip of the Striker X is a really stout, all-steel chiseled tip. It’s not as sharp as some chiseled tips like the Grim Reapers, which are super sharp, or the QAD Exodus heads. However, the Striker X has just got a decent edge to its tip, it’s just not really that sharp.
It has a dimple that begins like a scoop, begins at the back of the tip and then goes down the ferrule. That’s going to aid in penetration and aid in flight as well. It makes it a bit more streamlined and aerodynamic.
Next, I shot the Striker X into a steel plate 5 times. On the fifth shot, this happened…
The fifth shot was the charm… I mean, the HARM to the Striker X.
So, as you can see above the head held together through four shots through the steel plate. The blades are pretty vented, and so that’s where that weakness comes from.
To make the weight of having 4 blades, they have to be relatively thin and relatively vented. But again, they held together through four shots. And the tip got a little bit blunted, but it actually held together very well. It was still in good enough shape to sharpen out and use again.
The blades experienced quite a bit of edge chatter after the first shot. The chatter then increased with each subsequent shot.
Here, you can see the wound channel in the steel plate and you can see that square hole in the middle and then the four slits coming off of it. Now, there’s other 4-blade broadheads that make a better square hole than this. This is more of like the hole within the slits rather than a bigger square. So it’s a decent wound channel but there are other broadheads that make a better wound channel with the same cutting diameter.
So, after this test, these blades are not reusable. You would have to file away way too much in order to use them again. It held together better than some, not as well as others.
The head did still spin true, though. So, the ferrule didn’t bend, which is a by-product of that all-steel construction.
Here’s a look at the hole the Striker X put in the cinder block.
How about a shout-out to the Bishop FAD Eliminator Arrows? I’ve lost count how many times I’ve shot this one arrow into concrete!
Here’s the head after impact in the concrete, spins extremely well. The only damage you can see is that the tip got a little bit rolled over, a little bit curled there and blunted on the end. The edges of the tip, they got blunted as well, but they held up well and the structural integrity of the head is just fantastic.
Final Thoughts and Score Cards On Striker X Broadheads
So what do you think of the Striker X?
It performed pretty much as I expected. It was just pretty average to be honest.
Now, the cut size is above average. The sharpness was above average. And, the way it held up to zero penetration test in the concrete was above average. But, the blade durability, the edge retention through the steel plate, and the penetration… those things were about average or below average, honestly.