man hold fly fishing rod with water in the background

Traveling with fly fishing gear | Get it there safely

When planning a fly fishing trip, our excitement is so strong around the destination and the experience that we might have, that we often overlook the most important details; getting our gear there in one piece.

Nothing puts a damper on a highly anticipated fishing trip like losing
your gear to a situation that could have been prevented.

Whether you are traveling by plane or car, your fly fishing gear should receive first class care.

Knowing how and what to pack for a plane trip, and how to store a fly rod in a vehicle that might not be sporting a roof rack, will make your trip smooth sailing and a lot of fun.

Taking Your Fly Fishing Gear On a Plane

It seems like every airport, airline, and T.S.A. agent’s standards, directions, and verdicts vary greatly. This unfortunate reality can make traveling all the more anxiety ridden.

It also doesn’t help that fly fishing gear can have some questionable components that may raise some red flags such as fishing hooks, pliers, knives, etc.

wing of an airplane

Before you fly, be sure to check with your specific airline to find out what their regulations are pertaining to fly fishing equipment and supplies.

Fortunately, fly rods and their reels are deemed acceptable as checked luggage by most airline carriers, regardless of the carrier’s size.

To be absolutely sure that you will not have an unexpected hassle during your airport and plane experience, it’s always a good fail-safe to
check with your specific airline carrier.

A great way to think of it is that T.S.A cares about what is inside your bag or on your person, whereas the carrier cares about how much your bag weighs and how much space it takes up.

Check out this T.S.A resource that helps you determine what you are permitted to carry and what you are not.




Containers for flying with fly fishing gear

Once you have determined what you can and cannot bring, you’ll need to think about what type of container you will use for transporting your fly rod.

Four-piece rods and rod tubes are always the most ideal given that they are built for this purpose.

That said, the most important thing is that the chosen container is a hard case, extremely durable, and shock absorbent.

orvis fly rod tube

A fly rod tube will allow you to take your own gear on your next fly fishing trip and also save you lots of space.

Hitting a batch of heavy turbulence is an anxious situation all on its own. Don’t give yourself even more stress by worrying about what damage that said turbulence may inflict on your fly rod.

Flying with a 4 piece rod and rod tube will save you a ton of space and headache. Although all things have their pros and cons, it’s better to fish with your own gear than with rental gear used by all sorts of anglers because you had to leave yours at home.

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Where to put “questionable” fly fishing items

So, what questionable fly fishing gear items might raise T.S.A eyebrows? It’s a good idea to leave all tools (such as snippers, pliers, and hooks) in your
checked luggage.

It will also serve well to remove your fishing line from the reel and transport them in their respective packaging to prevent any security issues.

Other than that, so long as you don’t pack anything you can’t fit in your carry-on or checked baggage with ease, you’ll be
down and off the runway with no problem.




Traveling With Your Fly Fishing Gear via Car

There are some really impressive fly rod roof racks on the market that are hands down the best way to travel via car with your fly rod.

Roof racks like Riversmith are exceptionally durable, can accommodate multiple and varying fly weights, and have protective liners that ensure your fly rod has a smooth and highly protected ride.

But, sometimes you might travel in a rental vehicle, with a buddy who doesn’t have a roof rack, or simply in a vehicle that is not your own. This can require fishermen to get creative with how they’ll go about getting their fly rod to its destination in one piece.

truck parked by river and people fly fishing

Roof racks are a great way to protect your fly fishing rods when traveling by vehicle.

Here’s how you should protect your fly rod when traveling by vehicle:

  1. Disassemble your fly rod down to the number of pieces it was manufactured to break down to.
  2. Then, gently tape or strap the rod’s components together in several places.
  3. Once these parts are secure, place them in the vehicle pointed in a direction safe from windows, doors, and other passengers or obstructions.
  4. With the handles or butts of the fly rod down and a sock placed over the tip facing up, the rod should then also be strapped to the vehicle to prevent it from rolling around.

This security works both ways; it will ensure the vehicle doesn’t inflict damage to your fly rod, and that your fly rod won’t inflict damage to your vehicle.




Get Your Gear to Its Destination in One Piece

There is no such thing as caring too much about your fly rod and fishing equipment and doing everything in your power to get all of your gear to your fishing destination safely. So, take the extra minute to call your airline carrier and get information relevant to your rod and gear.




Invest some money into a fly rod roof rack for your personal vehicle so you can get from fishing spot to fishing spot with gentle ease. But, most importantly, don’t make impulsive and uneducated decisions on the fly so that you find yourself or your gear in a bad situation.

Do all your homework up front and your gear will thank you!

Kyle Rutten of Riversmith
Kyle Rutten of Riversmith.com
long range rifle on shooting range

Shoot For the Moon: Tips for Long-Range Shooting

Whether you just got your first rifle, grew tired of handguns at the range, or want to be a serious marksman, being able to shoot down-range takes a different skill set. Luckily, there are a few pointers that may help you take on the challenge of long-distance shooting.

Long-Range shooting tips to help you become a better shooter below!

Choose Your Rifle Optic Carefully

After the rifle, your biggest decision to make when it comes to long-range shooting is which optic to use. Some factors to consider are magnification, lens clarity, and parallax adjustment,

Whatever your decision, make sure to choose the best long-range optic for you. When you mount it on your scope, be sure to give yourself enough eye relief for the recoil.



Divide By Zero

Once you’ve picked your optic and mounted it properly, it’s important to zero your scope for the distance you’ll be shooting at. Hitting a long-distance target comes down to inches, so accuracy is key.

target showing through rifle scope

Zeroing your rifle at 300 yards will help you once drop and weather that affects the shot more heavily at distances of 500 yards.

Zeroing your optic will give you that accuracy and allow you to hit what you aim at consistently. A good range to zero for is 300 yards in the beginning, because it gives a better ground for long-distance situations without being affected by the drop and weather that 500 yards causes.

Check Your Posture and Breathe Easy

Your shooting stance can impact your shooting ability significantly, whether you fire prone or kneeling. One effective position was used by American snipers in Vietnam, in which you sit on the ground with one knee up and the other leg tucked underneath.




Every shooter has a stance that works for them, so find one that you’re most comfortable with. Remember to keep the stock of your rifle tucked tightly into the meat of your shoulder.

Also keep in mind that there’s a main vein where your stock is, so controlled breathing is essential. For long shots, exhale, wait for your heart rate to slow, and remain still before squeezing the trigger.


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Consistency In Shooting Is key

One of the biggest separations between shooters is commitment to a routine. Especially in the beginning, the transition to long-range shooting is hard work.

long range rifle target

When shooting long distances, consistent practice is key, which helps to build muscle memory.

Mental toughness means practicing often and shooting in tight groups frequently. Muscle memory can help with breathing habits, trigger tension, and reloading.



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Study and Learn

The longer the shot, the more factors will affect the bullet. Over a distance of 300-500 yards, you’ll experience bullet drop and wind.

If the target is moving, you might have to calculate your bullet’s time to target and adjust. The average shooter won’t deal as much with this, but hunters and snipers will.

As you continue to shoot longer distances, you’ll pick up tips that you take with you, like what grain of bullet has the best velocity for your needs.



Be Patient

hunter shooting a rifle

The ability to be still is critical when shooting a rifle long distances. Individuals who hunt deer and other big game certainly know the importance of staying still and quiet.

When you take a long shot, your body needs to be still. For snipers and some hunters, the ability to be quiet and unmoving is one of the biggest assets.

Even for the average long-distance shooter, though, patience is important. Expert marksmanship takes time and practice, so don’t expect to master it overnight.

Experienced riflemen can take years to reach their level of shooting. Zero your optic, work on your routine, and continue to practice.



Keep Your Rifle “Safe”

One important aspect for long-distance shooting is your routine afterward. After you clean your weapon, what do you do?

You might need to wipe off the lenses of your scope and place the lens caps, but taking care of your rifle makes a difference. Dust or dirt can affect accuracy and rifling, so you should invest in a gun safe to keep your weapon clean and protected between shoots.




Final thoughts on long range shooting tips

So, whether you are a novice or an expert marksman at long distances, these 6 tips should help you hone your craft at long-range shooting. Let’s review one more time:

  1. Choose the right long range optic
  2. Zero your rifle
  3. Practice proper posture and breathing
  4. Consistently practice your shooting routine
  5. Keep studying and learning
  6. Keep rifle clean and protected between shoots


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12/23/2024 02:19 am GMT

view while sighting in riflescope view
Richard Dougleas of Scopes Field
ranch fairy holding high foc arrows

High FOC In Bowhunting | It’s About Impact

Trust me, I am not trying to cause a problem with all this heavy arrow stuff.

I was failing.

The Ranch Fairy and promotion of high FOC (Front of Center) arrow systems began because of failure at impact. 

High FOC Arrows | How and why they began to matter

Ok, so here’s the abridged version of how and why high FOC arrows became so important to me.  

I really like fishing, bowhunting, and shotguns.  (Of course, after 30 years of marriage – and still going – Mrs. Fowler is awesome too). 

ranch fairy troy fowler with dead hog and iron will broadhead

Do you want exit wound when encountering humerus breaks, shoulder blades, and spinal columns? High FOC is the answer.

So anyway, I killed a 150” deer in 2009 and just lost interest for “deer” hunting.  I became an adult along the way (which surprised me too), had kids, and helped them become quite competent adults and outdoors folks.

I did NOT, however, lose my love for hunting mature, feral hog boars.  They are every bit as challenging as a cagey whitetail, with additional features. Mostly, they suck up arrows like a vacuum and run off laughing. 

FOC stands for “Front Of Center” (or Forward of Center), which indicates what percentage of the overall arrow weight is in front of the balancing point, or “center” of the arrow.

When you ask the guys at the local shop why they get away so often, they say something like, “big boars are just tough.” 

That’s it?  Just keep trying what you’ve got?  We don’t know anything else but “shoot fast and shoot a mechanical, ’cause they make huge holes?”

I was doing both (plus some fixed blades… guess we aren’t supposed to admit that!)  




I nearly quit bowhunting

At one time, I was below a 50% kill rate on big boar hogs. And bro’, I live in Texas… we use bait, and shoot at known distances! 

Still, 90% of the pigs I killed (or lost) had 12 or more inches of arrow sticking out of them.  

There were poor blood trails, long nights, and lots of magically disappearing pigs. 

So, I almost quit bowhunting the big pigs.  I mean, I have guns.  After all, they are, as my buddy Chris says, “very efficient”.  

Enter one Dr. Ed Ashby and his incredibly in-depth Natal Study. 


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Ed Ashby to the rescue

In his Natal Study, Ed Ashby identified 12 arrow penetration enhancing factors (visit www.ashbybowhunting.org for more information). 

I start reading and my mind starts melting!

He’s preaching: structural integrity, perfect arrow flight, rigid one piece single bevel broadheads, 350 grain points and inserts…..650 grain arrows?

ARE YOU KIDDING?

ed ashby with an archery asiatic buffalo

Dr. Ed Ashby, here with an asiatic buffalo, stresses the importance of structural integrity and perfect arrow flight.

I had no other thing to try. The archery shop “dock talk” wasn’t working.  

Now, this is not a popular thing, circa 2013. I mean, it’s completely irrational, right?

Except Ed was regularly killing Asiatic buffalo, including exit holes, and he had a couple rhino’s, with a bow, as a kicker. 

Oh, and just to check the man card, he used traditional gear. (That’s right, longbow, recurve, etc).

So, I jumped off the bridge with high FOC arrow builds and never looked back.  What did I have to lose?



Fast forward 7 years and hindsight being what it is, bowhunting is very simple… bowhunting is 100% equivalent to what happens at impact.

And, how much penetration your arrow achieves will increase your success; not the bow, stabilizer, or whiz bang back tension release, or a miracle peep sight. 

The broadhead and arrow kill the animal. 

Which one is best?  Let’s move on.


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Murphy’s Law (Anything that can go wrong will go wrong) certainly applies to bowhunting. But, what if we could have things go RIGHT more often?

What is a high FOC arrow?

So, Fowler “land the plane man!”  Get on with it… “what is a high FOC arrow?” 

And some other FOC-related questions:

  • “What’s considered high FOC?”
  • “Can you have too much arrow FOC?”
  • “What is a good FOC for hunting”
  • “Is arrow FOC overrated?”

Now, before we continue, you must realize that FOC or “front of center” is the measure of how much total arrow mass is in the front. The industry says 8-12% FOC is normal. 

So, let’s chat this up…

A high FOC arrow starts around 15% and can go up to 30%.



Just as a comparison, we are talking about 100 grain points (low FOC) vs 300-350 grain points (High FOC). 

So, I’d agree wholeheartedly that 8-12% is normal FOC. But that doesn’t answer a simple bowhunting question. “Is that the optimal arrow FOC from bow to animal i.e., “in flight” or is it the optimal arrow FOC to get through the deer, hog or other animal?” 

The industry just leaves that as an assumption while moving on to bow tuning and other shenanigans.



How to calculate the FOC of an arrow

To determine the front of center (FOC) of your arrow, first install the inserts, points/broadheads, wraps, vanes, nocks, etc that you will be using on the arrow shaft. Once you have completed your arrow setup use the equation in the graphic below: 

foc equation graphic
  1. Divide the length of the arrow (indicated by “L” in the graphic above) by 2.
  2. Find the balance point. (The balance point is where the arrow balances perfectly on your finger or other object). Mark the balance point and measure the distance from that point to the bottom of the groove of the nock (this distance = “A” in graphic above).
  3. Subtract center of the arrow measurement (calculated in step 1) from the balance point measurement (calculated in step 2).
  4. Multiply the result from step 3 by 100.
  5. Divide the result from Step 4 by the arrow’s overall length (L). This result will be the FOC of your arrow.

FOC Calculator

If you don’t want to take the time to do the math to find your arrow’s FOC, you can always use an FOC calculator. Just be sure your arrow has the inserts, points/broadheads, wraps, vanes, nocks already installed.


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The benefits of high FOC arrows

Before we jump off the FOC bridge, let’s clarify some things. 

  • Ashby Rule #1 – Structural Integrity: The arrow and broadhead system cannot fail, bend, or redirect at impact. 
  • Rule #2 – Arrow Flight: Perfect arrow flight is the enabler to penetration, when rule #1 is achieved. 

Structural integrity

Just so you know, I bare shaft tune each individual arrow before fletching, using the point weight I want to achieve for higher FOC.  I suggest you do the same. 

High FOC arrows often carry 300+ grain point or point / insert systems.  This places a tremendous amount of impact energy into a very small area, pulling the arrow into the target. 

high foc field points

Heavier inserts and field points/broadheads will help increase your arrow’s FOC.

Think of it like this.  You’re shooting a 300-grain bullet with a tail.  With lower FOC, you have a long object pushing a light point into sinew, meat, and bone. 

It’s like hitting a nail with a hammer. 

So, if you miss-hit the nail a little and your “arrow” goes sideways – it kills penetration. 

But, what if we could pull the nail into the board?  (Structural integrity, perfect flight assumed – you have to do that first).



Arrow flight

A second benefit of high FOC arrows is great arrow flight, which increases accuracy. 

During my journey, somewhere around 16% FOC, I started to see much more consistent grouping. It was like I was a better shot.  It just doesn’t take as much concentration on form and grip, etc. 

The heavier points, after proper bare shaft tuning, seem to pull the arrow along, and the fletch is just back there stabilizing the end of the arrow. 

ranch fairy troy fowler with feral hog

Since switching to high FOC arrows, my kill rate on tough feral hogs has gone to nearly 100%.



Better broadhead choice

Finally, the jump to these higher FOC arrow systems almost requires you to buy better broadheads, made of great steel. 

It’s not uncommon to have tool grade steels. The heads are machined, one-piece, and .08 thick. 

They are solid.  No fail points – (Rule #1 – Structural Integeriy… CHECK!)

For the bowhunter, this discussion may seem a bit off the rails. I would agree. The FOC town has an idiot, and I am he. 

However, my pig killing stats have gone to almost 100%.  Literally, if one gets away, I made a non-vital hit, and that’s on me. 

But, the adult arrows don’t fail anymore.  My arrows don’t break, the broadheads don’t bend or dull on impact, and penetration is almost always into the dirt (unless I hit a big off-side bone, which usually breaks, and turns the pig into a three-wheel drive unit. Pigs have short legs, so from an elevated position, its common to hit the ground before it passes through.) 





Final Thoughts On High FOC

In closing, I am vitally aware a “normal” arrow system kills millions of critters a year of all sizes. 

Mechanical broadheads, the same. I got that. I’ve done it. 

But, what if you had an arrow system you knew, for a fact, was going to achieve an exit wound in the absolute highest number of situations – all  impact side humerus breaks, shoulder blades broken, and spinal columns snapped with almost 100% efficiency?   

What if we accept Mr. Murphy is still alive and well, but we used a tool to level that playing field?  

The next time you see your hunting arrow, you should ask, “Is my arrow system capable of almost any impact point OR only if I have perfect shot placement?”

Bowhunting is 100% equivalent to what happens at impact. And, how much penetration your arrow achieves will increase your success. 

ranch fairy troy fowler holding redfish
Troy Fowler, AKA The Ranch Fairy.