heavy arrows and filed points for kinetic energy arrow testing

Arrow Spine Is Simple – “Yeah Right!”

At the core of the arrow spine conundrum, we have stiffness

First, The Basics | What Is Arrow Spine?

The archery world has set a standard for arrow spine. Most companies follow it in this order: 

  1. The higher the number (400 spine), the softer, or more flexible arrow. 
  2. The lower number (250 spine) is a stiffer, or less flexible arrow. 

I like to say one is “bendier” and the other is less “bendy.” I’m not sure that is even a word…. oh wait, I said it, so it IS a word, because I. AM. SPECIAL. Ha!!

arrow flexing in flight after being shot from bow

Every arrow shaft has a certain degree of “bendiness.” This is known as the arrow spine.

Anyhoo, here is a very high-level overview of arrow spine…

The standard is to press the center of each arrow shaft at 28” width with a gizmo. This “gizmo” (arrow spine tester) only pushes so far. The gizmo has a gauge showing pressure and it shows the amount the arrow flexes. If it’s a softer spine, it bends further. If it’s stiffer, it bends less. 

spine tester for arrows

This is an example of an arrow spine tester. What could be more “gizmo” than this!

The arrow companies try to build a mixture of carbon and wall thickness to achieve consistent results to hit their targeted spine offerings. 

How Is Arrow Spine Measured (The Details)

The spine of an arrow is measured by supporting a 28-inch shaft at both ends, while hanging a weight (1.94 lbs.) from the center point of it. The amount of flex caused by the weight is then measured.

So, let’s say that an arrow shaft bends half of an inch when the weight is applied, then it would have a static spine rating of .500″.

Ok Class, Let’s Review!

So let’s review to be sure everyone is following the ‘ole Ranch Fairy’s tutelage…

Higher number = softer spine. 

Lower number = stiffer spine. 

Until you cut them. Then its tin foil hat time!



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Arrows, PVC and gardening wives… Just stay with me here

Since I like simple ideas, I am going to use one moving forward.

KEEP THIS PICTURE IN YOUR HEAD… You have a wife who is a gardener. (Of note, I have intimate knowledge of the following scenario… The names have been changed to protect the innocent.)

So anyway, this wife of mine, AHEM, I mean of yours, loves to plant new plants and RELOCATE existing plants and trees, despite the previously planted forest of plants and relocated plants. 

flowers and sprinkler

Why the flowery springtime imagery? We’re supposed to be talking arrow spine here! Calm down, we’re getting there!

You also have a sprinkler system. 

This woman, to whom you are betrothed, is amazing at requiring a couple of her 10 plants to be planted right on top of a sprinkler line. Now, you suspect you’re going to hit a water line, but when, when, when????” (I mean, she doesn’t even have water witching sticks or anything to be considerate!!!)



As you dig hole number 6 of 10, you feel the crunch/crush of PVC.  

Your day just extended. 

But, since you know this was inevitable, you have extra PVC supplies. So, you go get a stick of ½” PVC. It’s 10 feet long.

You grab the PVC in the middle to relocate it to your new “project.” There’s a certain amount of sag on both ends. But when you cut it down to 6 feet….what happens to the stiffness?

Ok – keep that in your head. I’m gonna add one more thing… If you have a full stick of PVC and only cut 1” off, or 1 foot off, or 2 feet off, does it stiffen with each cut? 

man bending pvc pipe with n1 outdoors just pass'n through tee

If you cut a piece of PVC, what happens to the stiffness? Wonder what happens to arrow shaft spine when you cut it? Hmmmm.




PVC? I thought we were talking arrow shafts here!

When it comes to carbon arrows, it’s easy – there are only 4 spines… (RANCH FAIRY DISCLAIMER!! see caption below before you blow me up with your comments!)

Remember this… flying sticks change when you cut them! FACT.

arrow shafts showing spine number

If you are an archery nerd, you’re going to rat me out because there are in fact more than 4 spines. Some companies offer 600 and 500 spines, then much stiffer 200 and 150. A couple of the companies have their own way of doing things like: 320 / 260 / 140….oh I feel the love of being an individual! But, PRACTICALLY SPEAKING, there are 4 spines for the average yahoo trying to kill a deer, with a bow: (400/350/300/250). This is because 90% of us yahoos shoot 50-70#. So, those are the most common starting points to build a reasonable arrow for hunting from 400 grains and a flapper (skeet load) to 700 grains and a hammer (magnum).


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The reality is that there are gazillions of spine charts and programs out there. The quality of the information is wide and varied, so I am not going to worry about that now. 

I want you to understand what happens to the flying stick, when you change the length of that flying stick.

I have tested everything from here forward so, let’s get something real straight. EVERY minor length change to the stick, changes the stick.



So, let’s say you snort the fairy dust and start with an arrow spine your bow shop may have selected. Or, you figured it out yourself.

Let’s say you require and tune up some 300 spine sticks. You’re shooting 60# at 29” draw and 225 grains up front. 

It’s flying great and you think this crazy Ranch Fairy guy might be onto something. So, you’re talking to your friend who shoots a twizzler and he’s been sad about bouncing arrows off animals.


ranch fairy logo

(If you need help with an arrow build email me troy@ranchfairy.com please include: draw weight, draw length, and point mass)



But, your buddy shoots 27” at 60#

I would still put him in a 300 spine. 

However, his arrow is 2” shorter. It started out at 300 spine but it’s cut shorter than 28” where the companies measure spine. ***Remember the PVC question?

So, this means that since you’re longer than 28”, where the spine is measured, (you are shooting at 29” long), your arrow now is roughly a 310 spine (softer).



But, your buddy is shooting a 290 spine (stiffer), because he is 1” shorter than 28” where the spine was originally measured by the arrow company.

So, you aren’t shooting the same spine (300 spine arrows), even though it started with a 300 spine arrow and it’s the correct arrow for both of you to start with.

Are you having fun yet?

(Of note, the 310 and 290 spine are guesstimates, this is an example. Practically speaking, the shorter arrow is incrementally stiffer and vice versa.)




I know it sounds like I am splitting atoms, but the more I do this, the more annoying this flying stick sport becomes. 

There are so many small (yet massive) details. 

So let’s say you spitball some arrows. You know 29” is the length that flies for you.

Life is dreamy!



BUT, you decide to cut a few down to 28.5” so they are .06 FPS faster.

Seriously, the spine changes a little bit.  

Or, even better, you get a “deal” on 30” long arrows and decide that’s close enough.

NOPE – it’s not.  


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But I recommend you bare shaft and recheck everything, any change, for perfect arrow flight.  Heck – it might work….it might not. 

Oh, I don’t think it’s going to be doing loops. But, broadheads may be just that much different. They may wander 2” left or do some other annoying thing that changes a quick kill to a longer trail. 

There are more details… yup, super annoying! Yup, super massive! It would be a ton to digest all at once. 

sirius arrow shafts and heavy field points

Point weight, broadheads, lighted nocks, even fletching style (somewhat) and any amount of weight added (think wraps) to the back of the arrow messes with the flying stick. Even when the stick length doesn’t change. Isn’t that just wonderful?




Arrow Spine (Not So) Final Thoughts…

At the end of the day, remember this about any Ranch Fairy video or article… I am only concerned with one thing.  Maximum arrow lethality on impact

Targets are boring. Perfect arrow flight to get the flying stick there is required. I have multiple videos on arrow tuning.  But read this and ponder. 

“An arrow is always flying, in the air, or in hair, meat, and bone, it is always flying”

Dr. Ed Ashby

If that arrow is a little sideways in the air at TAC, 3-D tournaments or your local indoor range, who cares?

One inch of penetration on a target is the same score as 12” of penetration.

But, at impact on any target animal, “The arrow is always flying.” Flying that arrow just a little sideways erodes penetration, and lack of penetration reduces lethality. Your goal is maximum arrow lethality

Stay tuned.

ranch fairy wearing shoot adult arrows shirt
You can find Troy Fowler (AKA The Ranch Fairy) on YouTube HERE.
man holding compound bow

Bow Anatomy 101 | Parts Of A Compound Bow

Can you name all the parts of a compound bow?

Check out our interactive diagram below to test your knowledge!

You might be new to the sport of bowhunting and be looking to learn all you can about it.

Or, maybe you are a seasoned bowhunter wanting to test your knowledge.

Either, way this one’s for you!

In the interactive diagram below, you can click/touch the NUMBER of the parts in the chart below to reveal the names of each item. You can read more about what each part is and does in the sections below the diagram. See how many you can get right!

Interactive Parts of A Compound Bow Diagram

Cams Limb Dampener Limbs Limb Pivot Limb Pocket Limb Bolt Riser Sight Mounts Cable Guard Rest Mounts Arrow Shelf Stabilizer Mount Axle String Splitter Cables String Serving Nocking Point Grip String Stop Cable Splitter Axle To Axle Length Brace Height

Compound Bow Parts | Piece-By-Piece

In the above diagram of the Nexus2 by Prime Archery, you can view the parts of a compound bow. Find out more about what each part does by clicking the words below:

  1. Cams
  2. Limb Dampeners
  3. Limbs
  4. Limb Pivot
  5. Limb Pocket
  6. Limb Bolt
  7. Riser
  8. Sight Mounts
  9. Cable Guard
  10. Rest Mounts
  11. Arrow Shelf
  12. Stabilizer Mount
  13. Axle
  14. String Splitter
  15. Cables
  16. String
  17. Serving
  18. Nocking Point
  19. Grip
  20. String Stop
  21. Cable Splitter
  22. Axle-To-Axle Length
  23. Brace Height

1. Cams

cam of a compound bow

On a compound bow, the cams are the round, or oval-shaped discs that work much like a block-and-tackle pulley system. The cams are connected to the axles of the bow.

The cams act as the “multiplier” of the energy of the person pulling the bow string. This allows the bow to store more energy than the person pulling the bow string is actually exerting.

The bow has a “back wall” where the cams will not turn any more. This is where the archer is at “full draw.” At this point, there is a percentage of “letoff” that allows the archer or hunter to hold the force of the bow at a fraction of the actual pounds of pull being exerted.



For example, a bow that is set to a 70-lb draw weight with a 70% letoff will only take 21 lbs of force to hold at full draw. The energy is stored in the bow’s limbs until the archer releases, which unleashes the multiplied energery, propelling the arrow toward its target.

So, the cams of the bow are what change the bow in essence from a traditional bow to a compound bow.



2. Limb Dampeners

limb dampener

Limb dampeners reduce the noise and vibration throughout the limbs and riser of the bow.

When the hunter or archer releases the arrow the sudden and powerful uncoiling of the string on the cams produces vibration, which causes noise. The limb dampeners help to absorb that vibration, resulting in a quieting of the bow.

This absorption by the limb dampeners is especially helpful in reducing noise when hunting deer or other wild game and also reduces the amount of vibration that is transferred to the archer.



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3. Limbs

limbs of compound bow

A compound bow’s limbs are connected to the riser and store the energy that is collected when the string is pulled and the cams turn. When the string is released, the energy from the limbs is transferred to the arrow, which propels it through the air.

Most compound bow limbs are made up of fiberglass or composite material. Some bow limbs are solid, one-piece limbs. Others are “split,” having a gap between both sides of the upper and lower limbs.



4. Limb Pivot

limb pivot

Where the limbs pivot and flex on the riser.



5. Limb Pocket

limb pocket

The limbs of the bow rest in the limb pocket. These can be made of machined aluminum, ABS plastic or other composite materials. The limbs of the bow are secured in the limb pocket by the limb bolts.



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6. Limb Bolt

limb bolt of compound bow

The limb bolt is the crucial piece in connecting the limb pockets, which hold the limbs of the bow, to the riser.

Limb bolts are typically allen wrenc adjustable. Tightening the limb bolts increases the draw weight poundage of the bow. Loosening the limb bolts will decrease the draw weight poundage.


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It’s very important that any adjustment to the limb bolts be made in the same increments. If the adjustments are uneven, the bow’s cams could get out of time, causing an improper tune.

If you need to adjust your bow’s draw weight, it’s a good idea to back the limb bolts all the way down and then start moving them both up the same amount.



7. Riser

riser of compound bow

The riser is the vertical portion and foundation of a compound bow. The limbs attach to it and it also serves as the fastening point for accessories such as the sight, arrow rest, grip, stabilizer, quiver, etc.



8. Sight Mounts

sight mounts on compound bow

Sight mounts are holes in the riser that serve as the attaching point for the bow’s sight. The archer will look through the peep on the bow string and at the pin(s) of the sight to aim at the target or game animal.



9. Cable Guard

cable guard on compound bow

The Cable guard runs perpendicular to the bow’s riser. It keeps the bow’s cable out of the way of the arrow’s line of fire. It typically has rollers and/or slides attached to it to aid in keeping the cable on track.



10. Rest Mounts

rest mounts on compound bow

Rest mounts are holes in the riser that serve as the attaching point for the bow’s rest. The rest is what holds the arrow in place while the archer is drawing and releasing the arrow.

There are many different types of rests. Some use prongs that the arrow will rest on, while others hold the arrow up and then fall out of the way when the arrow is released. Others, called containment rests, completely surround the arrow until it is fired and typically have no moving parts.



11. Arrow Shelf

arrow shelf on compound bow

The arrow shelf is the area of the riser where the arrow sits on the rest. While the rest typically holds the arrow off the shelf on compound bows, traditional bows (non-compound) usually have the arrow resting directly on the arrow shelf.



12. Stabilizer Mount

The stabilizer mount is a universal size threaded hole in the riser that is used to attach a stabilizer to.

The stabilizer helps balance and thus “stabilize” the bow when drawing and shooting, and also typically has vibration dampening properties. In essence, it helps the bow resist movement during the draw cycle and when shooting.

The back of the stabilizer also typically serves as the fastening point for the wrist sling.



13. Axle

axle of a compound bow

The Axle is what holds the cams, in the same way a car axle holds its wheels. The cams have a hole in the center. The axle goes through the center of the axle and attach to the limbs.



14. String Splitter

string splitter on compound bow

Bows with parallel limbs (which eliminate cam lean) will have a string splitter. On these types of bows, the main part of the string that the archer attaches the release to “splits” just before the cams.

The splitter is what essential turns the single string into two strings, each going around its respective cam.





15. Cables

cables on compound bow

The cable(s) runs between the bow’s cams. They assist in moving the cams of the bow when the string is pulled back by the archer. It’s important to replace your cable(s) as well as your string as recommended per the bow manufacturer’s instructions or on the advice of your local bow shop.



16. String

string on compound bow

The string serves several functions. It is where the archer will connect their release. It is what the archer pulls (or draws) back and releases to launch the arrow.

Many archers will utilize a “D loop,” which attaches to the bow string and serves as a way to quickly attach the release to the string and also improves accuracy.

You should always inspect your string before and after shooting and hunting. A damaged string could end up being a broken string, which could result in serious injury to the shooter or others.

Any cuts or fraying should be addressed immediately and it is recommended that you take to your local bow shop for an assessment.



17. Serving

serving on a compound bow

The “center serving” is coiled thread wrapped around the center portion of your string where you would nock an arrow and attach a D-loop. The center serving protect the center section of the string from wear and tear that results from nocking arrows as well as drawing and shooting the bow.


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There is also serving material on areas of your bow string that go around the cams or through rollers that are attached to the cable guards. This helps the bow string stay together, especially in places that are likely to received the most friction.



18. Nocking Point

nocking point on a compound bow

The nocking point is where the arrow, by way of the arrow nock, attaches to the bow string. The D-loop attaches above and below the nocking point.



19. Grip

grip on a compound bow

The grip is the part of the bow that you hold while shooting. Grips are made of various materials such as wood, rubber, plastic, metal, etc.

The grip can also be a source of inaccuracy. For example, if you hold the grip too tightly, or twist the grip while shooting, you can cause your arrow to go off-course from where you were aiming.



20. String Stop

string stop on compound bow

String vibration is a large cause for noise when a bow fires. A string stop helps dampen that vibration and thus reduces unwanted noise. The string stop is a rubber part that is often mounted on a post that is directly opposite of the front stabilizer.

The string stop not only helps dampen vibration, but also aids in better accuracy for the shooter, often resulting in tighter arrow groups at the target.



21. Cable Splitter

cable splitter on compound bow

On some bows, the cable splitter is a ring that connects the cable to two separate cables, thus dampening vibration and noise of the cable during shooting.




22. Axle-To-Axle Length

“Axle-to-axle” is not a part of a compound bow, but rather a reference to measurement. Axle-to-axle is the measurement from the center of one cam to the other. The axles go through the center of the cams.

This axle-to-axle measurement is often used to determine how forgiving the bow will be in regards to arrow flight accuracy when taking farther shots.

A bow with a longer axle-to-axle height may be more forgiving that a shorter one, but may also be difficult to maneuver in tight-quarter hunting scenarios.



23. Brace Height

The “brace height” is not a part of the bow, but rather a measurement, in inches, of the distance between the “throat” of the grip to the center of the bow’s string.

A shorter brace height means a longer “power stroke,” which is the distance from the grip to the center of the string when the archer is at full draw. A longer power stroke typically means a faster bow, as it increases the amount of time that the arrow is attached to the string.



Parts Of A Compound Bow Conclusion

Whether you are just a beginner bowhunter or looking to brush up on your bow component knowledge, we hope this has been a helpful tool for you!


Exodus broadheads review

QAD Exodus Broadhead Review (Hint: It’s amazing!)

In this review, I tested the QAD Exodus broadheads, (the Swept Blade Model).

At the time of this review, I’ve taken more 60 animals in the U.S., Africa and Canada, all over the United States with this head. It has always been a great performer.

One day, Giles here at N1 Outdoors asked me if I’d ever done a standalone test on the Exodus. I thought about it and realized I never had!

So, since I updated my testing procedure, I thought it would be a great time to put the Exodus to the test.

Let’s see how it holds up in my testing.

The QAD Exodus Broadhead Specifics

Now first, we are going to zoom on in here, go through some of the design features and specifications and then put it to the test.

Here, you can see the Exodus head up close. Of course, it spins very well, with super tight tolerances.

There are some really unique features about this head…


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Super-Short Ferrule!

First of all, notice the blade-over-shaft technology where the blades extend over the shaft. The reason for this is two-fold; First of all, it makes the ferrule super short.

So, your FOC is going to be the same. Therefore, the spine is going to be the same and the overall length is going to be the same. Some broadheads extend really far, and that is going to affect the flight accordingly.

exodus broadhead blade over shaft feature

The ferrule extends 13/16 of and inch beyond the end of the arrow, making it one of the shortest on the market. (It’s actually shorter than some field points!) And, the idea behind this feature is that it’s going to keep the overall length of your arrow about the same as when you shoot field points.

exodus short ferrule on broadhead

Having having such a short ferrule is that makes the ferrule itself extremely durable because it’s just so short. It’s going to be hard to bend or break that ferrule.



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exodus broadheads stainless steel blades

Additionally, the head is 100% stainless steel. The blades are 0.040 inches thick, with some of the thickest replaceable blades on the market, and these are stainless steel as well.



Tip and Blade Angle

exodus chisel point tip

The Exodus has a hardened, chiseled tip that is cut-on-contact. The tip is actually very sharp and can be sharpened even more on the end.

Now, another thing that’s unique about the Exodus is the angle that the tip creates in the beginning continues the whole length of the broadhead. What that means is it’s going to protect the strength of the blade.

exodus blade angle compared to wasp broadhead

Here is the QAD Exodus compared to a Wasp broadhead. Notice how blades just suddenly jut out after the chisel tip. That’s not a flaw, as the Wasp is a great broadhead, but that’s going to put a lot of pressure on that initial flared angle of the blade. And indeed, when I’ve tested Wasp broadheads and others like it, that’s often the place that the blade breaks or gets really damaged.

With the Exodus, the tip and the angle of the blade continue the whole length of the broadhead, making it more durable. And, notice how the chisel tip is really wide. That is going to create a really big wound channel.





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Cutting Diameter

cutting diameter of exodus broadhead swept model

The cutting diameter of the Exodus is a full 1-1/4 inches. That’s pretty rare with a fixed, 3-blade broadhead. Usually, they are 1-1/8 inches. Sometimes they go 1-3/16, but there aren’t many that go a full 1-1/4. They can get away with that and still have good flight because of the overall short profile, due to the blade-over-shaft technology.



So, you can see why I was eager to put this head to the test with all my new tests that I recently implemented. Let’s see how it performed!

QAD Exodus Flight Test

flight test results of exodus broadhead swept model

Here’s the grouping. The field point was the first shot (in the middle), which hit a little bit low. (I dropped my arm on the shot.) The broadheads shot on either side of the bullseye there. They grouped together very well.



Out Of The Box Sharpness Test

out of the box sharpness test on exodus

Exodus out-of-the-box sharpness: 200.



Ballistic Gel Penetration Test

I shot the QAD Exodus into ballistic gel that was fronted with 1/2-inch MDF board and foam matting.

ballistic gel with exodus broadhead penetrating 8 inches

The QAD Exodus penetrated the ballistic gel 8 inches.



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Edge retention

After the ballistic gel penetration test, I again tested the sharpness of the Exodus to see how much it had dulled.

exodus broadhead sharpness after penetration testing

After the ballistic gel penetration test the sharpness test showed 250.



Layered Cardboard Penetration Test

exodus cardboard penetration test

The Exodus penetrated through 66 layers of cardboard. Wow!

Steel Plate Test

Next I shot the Exodus broadhead through a .22 gauge steel plate 5 times. Check out the results…

exodus steel plate test

Here’s the hole that the Exodus makes in the steel plate. You can see that it’s more than just a little circle with three slits coming off of it like some broadheads are. It opens up more of a triangle. Now, it’s not a pure triangle as like the Tooth of the Arrow, which makes a pure square. But, it’s one of the best triangular cuts that there is. Maybe the best of any 3-blade that I’ve tested.

exodus after steel plate test

Here’s the Exodus after going through the steel plate five times. It’s in pristine condition. The blades look pretty much brand new, with just a slight amount of cosmetic markup. The tip is in excellent condition, with a little bit of cosmetic discoloration and scrapes, but no damage to the edge itself.

impala shot with exodus broadhead

Here, you can see what the Exodus did on an impala. This was really typical of my hunts with the Exodus. Not on every animal, but on a lot of them. It would make a really clean triangular hole just like this.



Concrete Block Test: WOW!

Finally, I shot the Exodus into a concrete block. Check this out!

exodus broadhead buried in cinder block

The Exodus embedded really deeply into this concrete. It took me 15 minutes, with a hammer and a chisel, to get it out!

exodus after concrete block test

Here is the Exodus after sticking in the concrete. I mean it did embed in it. And if you look closely, you see that it’s in extremely good condition. Some of the blade portion that actually embedded in the concrete still kept its edge. You can’t even notice that it hit anything, let alone that it went through the steel plate five times and it then went into the concrete as well! The tip is also in excellent condition, except for a bunch of concrete that fused to it. But, even the very tip is still really pointy. That didn’t get bent or knocked off in any way. Excellent durability!




Final thoughts on the QAD Exodus Broahdead

So what do you think of the Exodus? I’ve tested a ton of different broadheads and man, every time I test this head in any way, I’m blown away by how well it performs. It just doesn’t have many weaknesses.

I consider it probably the best all-around fixed blade head in its price category on the market today. And then you have the option of replaceable blades at that. Man, it really is a performer!



So, check out the scores and see how it did in the area that matters to you the most. I only tested the Swept Model, but the Full model does really well also. There are some states where you can’t shoot the Swept because it’s banned.

scorecard for exodus broadheads review
Scorecard for the QAD Exodus Swept Model


So, the Full model can use as an option in those states. But, I’ve found that the Swept Model is slightly more forgiving in flight and they’re equally strong as well.

Props to QAD, you guys are doing a fantastic job with the Exodus!

I hope you have tons of success with this head while bowhunting!

lusk golden arrow grade for exodus broadheads
The Lusk Archery Golden Arrow Grade for the QAD Exodus.