VPA Turkey Spur Broadhead review

What is THAT? | VPA Turkey Spur Broadhead Review

Today, I’m going to be testing a head designed specifically for turkeys… the VPA Turkey Spur.

Now, even though this head is designed specifically for turkeys, I put it through my normal test protocol. That way, you can compare the results with other broadheads, and see if it might be a good fit for you.

So, let’s get started looking at what I found out!

The VPA Turkey Spur Up Close

Here’s a good look at the head. Man, what a really cool looking design! I’ve never seen another broadhead like it!

VPA Turkey Spur profile view

The VPA Turkey Spur broadhead is machined out of a single piece of carbon steel.

VPA Turkey Spur tip

The cutting diameter, at its maximum, is 1-1/8″, which is pretty standard for a three-blade broadhead. That’s exactly what this head is… a simple three-blade broadhead with a pyramid tip to give it extra durability. The idea is that the initial tip will penetrate really deeply into the animal.

VPA Turkey Foot Blunt Blade

Here’s a look at the part of the head that is dull, which is supposed to add knockdown power on a turkey.

There’s about a quarter of an inch of the second blade that’s not sharpened, all the way around, just to give it some knockdown power in releasing or transferring the energy, that’s built up from the momentum, into the animal

The duller part of the blade is also supposed to help decelerate the speed of the arrow and slow down the penetration, so that the bird really feels the full impact of the arrow. And then, it’s sharpened again on these ends.

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07/11/2025 06:03 am GMT

Testing Of The VPA Turkey Spur Broadhead

I was eager to see how the VPA Turkey Spur performed!

For the testing of the VPA Turkey Spur broadheads, I used by BowTech CP28 set at 72 pounds. I also used Bishop FOC King arrows for most of the shots. (On the really hard impact shots, I used the Bishop FAD Eliminators, because they can really take a beating!)

Flight Forgiveness Test

I shot one field point and then one of the Turkey Spurs at 30 yards. It had moderately forgiving flight.

Initial Sharpness Test

In this test, I measured how much force it takes to cut a wire with the blade of the head. The lower the number, the better.

VPA Turkey Spur Initial Sharpness Test

It took 450 grams of force to cut through the wire which is a 7.5 on a 10-point scale.

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Penetration Test I: 2/3″ rubber mat, 1/2″ MDF, Clear FBI Ballistic Gel

VPA Turkey Spur ballistic gel mdf test

It penetrated 7-1/2″ of ballistic gel that was fronted with a 2/3″ rubber mat and 1/2″ MDF.

Edge Retention Test: (Sharpness After Penetration Test I)

VPA Turkey Spur post-test sharpness

It only took an extra 25 grams of force to cut through the wire. That is a great result!

It took an extra 25 grams of force to cut through the wire which is a 9.5 in a 10-point scale.

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Penetration Test 2: Layered Cardboard

VPA Turkey Spur layered cardboard test

It penetrated through 56 layers of cardboard.

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Angled Shot Test: 1/4″ MDF And Carpet

VPA Turkey Spur Angled MDF test

The Turkey Spur penetrated the angled MDF with no problem at all.

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Durability Test #1: 1/2″ MDF (Max 3 Shots)

VPA Turkey Spur after 3 shots into MDF

I shot the Turkey Spur into 1/2″ MDF 3 times and it was in excellent condition afterwards.

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Durability Test #2: 22-Gauge Steel (Max 2 Shots)

VPA Turkey Spur after steel plate test

It held up really well through the steel plate. And you can see the tip got a little bit blunted, but the edges held together really well and it made decent holes. They’re just really small especially for a turkey head.

Concrete Test

VPA Turkey Spur concrete block test

I shot the Turkey Spur into a concrete block. It actually stuck!

VPA Turkey Spur after concrete block test

Here is the Turkey Spur after all the durability tests (going through the MDF three times, a steel plate two times, and then sticking into the concrete). Man, the entire tip went into the concrete! That was some deep penetration into that cinder block. And, the cinder block was tougher than the other ones I’ve used recently, here in Texas. But, it held together fairly well through all of that. The edge still stayed relatively sharp (it did get a bit of tip curl from the steel plate test. And, there’s a little bit of a wobble to it.)

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Final Thoughts On The VPA Turkey Spur Broadheads

So what do you think of this broadhead?

It performed really well in all the testing. The flight was good, the penetration was good, and the durability was good. It definitely has a lot of strengths.

But when it comes to really choosing a broadhead for a specific animal, like in this case, turkey, I’ll be honest, I don’t really get it.

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You know, I understand the design, but it doesn’t really add that much more lethality for turkey over any three-blade 1-1/8″ cut like a Montec or something like that. I mean, maybe it has a little bit more knockdown power with those blunted blades in the back.

When it comes to hitting the heart, lungs of a turkey and really putting it down fast, I want the biggest cut I can possibly get.

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There are a lot of other fixed blades with a bigger cut than this.

And, there’s also a lot of mechanicals and hybrids with a much bigger cut than this.

So, if you like using these and they work good for you, that’s awesome, more power to you!

I really enjoyed testing it. But, I am not going to put this on the end of one of my arrows on a hard earned shot on a turkey. I’m going for a much bigger cut to put that bad boy down as quickly as possible.

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VPA Turkey Foot ACTUAL Lusk Score

I’ve got two scores for this head. The actual raw score that it got was 79.44, which is seven golden arrows…

VPA Turkey Foot Lusk grade as TURKEY head

…But as a turkey broadhead, which is what it’s designed and marketed for, I gave it five golden arrows.

how to make a wingbone turkey call

How To Make A Wingbone Turkey Call Step-By-Step!

Hi, Josh Wells here, of N1 Outdoors, and I’m going to show you step-by-step how to make a wingbone turkey call!

Why Make A Wingbone Turkey Call?

You might want to make a wingbone turkey call for a couple different reasons.

Practically speaking, you might want to use one to locate turkeys (sounds logical, doesn’t it?)

n1 outdoors turkey hunter

The fan and beard of a gobbler are prized possessions for a turkey hunter, but the wings can provide what is needed for a DIY turkey call!

Now, I’m not crazy about using one to call turkeys (I prefer a mouth call, pot call or box call). And, while a wingbone turkey calls will work to call birds, I prefer using it to locate birds because of its high pitch.

Secondly, you might want to make a wingbone call for a keepsake, which is why I’ll be showing you how to do this process.

I’m making one for my son Micah, as a way to commemorate his first turkey.

What You’ll Need

wingbone turkey call supplies list

You don’t need much in the way of supplies to make your own wingbone turkey call.

Before we get into the specific steps of making a wingbone turkey call, here’s what you’ll need to get started:

  • Pocket knife (for fleshing out the bone)
  • Paper (to cover work table)
  • Small pot
  • Dish soap
  • Peroxide
  • Epoxy

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How To Make Your Own Wingbone Turkey Call

The process of making a wingbone call is similar in some regards to another instructional I have done on how to make a European mount for a deer skull. But, the cleanup is a lot easier and the boiling takes less time.

Time needed: 4 hours

  • Cut the large bone

    cut line for large wingbone

    When you cut the big bone, you want to cut it right about here and at an angle (see above). We want that end to be as wide as possible so it will project the sound effectively.

  • Clean out the inside of the bones (smaller bones)

    cleaning out wingbone with chainsaw file

    You can get the marrow out several different ways. Once easy way is just to blow it out like a straw. Just pretend like you’re blowing spit balls like you used to in elementary school.

    You can use a chainsaw file and insert it into the bone to remove the hardened marrow.

  • Clean out the inside of the bones (large bone)


    inside of larger wingbone after cutting

    You’ll notice how the larger bone has much more that needs to be cleaned out. You can work at it with the same chainsaw file. If you have a Dremel or similar tool, you can work on removing the marrow fiber that way.

  • Piece the bones together and mark


    sharpie lines on wingbone turkey call

    Piece the bones together so that they follow the same crown line and mark the ends of each, so that when you take them apart to glue them, you’ll know how they go back together.

  • Glue the bones together

    apply epoxy to wingbone joints

    Use epoxy or other adhesive to glue the joints of the wingbones together.

    Once you fit the glued pieces together, backfill any holes or creases so that the joints are airtight. The sound will be better, the more airtight it is.

    You can use your finger to smooth out the adhesive.

    Let them dry according to adhesive directions. Once it dries, you can lightly sand any undesired leftover adhesive residue.

  • Apply thread to joints (optional)


    add glue to threads of wingbone turkey call

    You don’t have to use thread on the joints, but it does give it a nice touch. Add a touch of adhesive and simply start wrapping around the joint until you reach the desired thickness/appearance.

    Once you have finished wrapping, you can add some clear adhesive, so that it saturates the threaded section, hardens, and keeps the thread securely in place once it dries.

  • All done!

    wingbone turkey call on display

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    Final Thoughts On Making Your Own Wingbone Turkey Call

    We hope this tutorial has been helpful in teaching you how to make your own wingbone turkey call. They not only make great keepsakes to remember special moments, but they are functional as well.

    Be sure to check out more great hunting and fishing tips videos on our YouTube channel!

    Good luck in the turkey woods!

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    Video tutorial on how to make your own wingbone call.
    NAP Killzone review header image

    In The Zone? | The NAP Killzone Broadheads Review

    In this broadhead review, I tested a tried and true mechanical that has been around for a while… the NAP Killzone.

    I’ve used this head on hogs, turkey, and deer, and it has always performed pretty well for me in the field.

    But I wanted to see how it performed in my testing regimen.

    So, let’s zoom in and go through some of the design features and specifications of the Killzone 125 grain and then we will put it to the test.

    NAP Killzone Broadhead Up Close

    NAP Killzone closed position

    Here’s a good look at the Killzone. This is a classic, classic rear-deploying head. When the blades are fully opened, it has got a cutting diameter of 2″ in the open position and it doesn’t utilize any O-ring or retention clips or anything like that.

    NAP Killzone Wings

    It uses a mechanism where the blades slide back due to pressure right here on these little wing bats on the little hinge. They slide back into their open position. They don’t lock open, but they’re held open just by the force that’s being pushed against them.

    NAP Killzone open position

    The Killzone in the open position. The body of the NAP Killzone is a 7075 aluminum, which as I always say, if you’re going to use aluminum, that’s the way to go, because it’s stronger than some steels. But, it’s very vented, so I definitely wanted to see how it would hold up.

    NAP Killzone chiseled tip

    It also has a nice kind of chiseled type tip that’s a hardened steel and the blades are steel as well. By my measurement, they are 0.035″ thick. So, really nice rear-deploying, good size cut, classic, simple mechanical head.

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    07/11/2025 08:03 am GMT

    NAP Killzone Testing

    Let’s see how the NAP Killzone performed in the below tests…

    For these tests on the Killzone, I used my Bowtech CP28 set at 72 pounds. I used Bishop FOC King Arrows for most of the shots, and Bishop FAD Eliminators for the really hard impact ones.

    Flight Forgiveness Test (I field pt then I broadhead @30 yds)

    The NAP Killzone broadhead flew almost exactly like the field point.

    Initial Sharpness Test

    NAP Killzone out of the box sharpness

    The pre-testing sharpness was 325 (the lower the number, the sharper the blade).

    Penetration Test 1 

    NAP Killzone MDF Ballistic Gel test

    I shot the Killzone into FBI ballistic gel that was fronted with a 2/3″ rubber mat and 1/2″ MDF. It penetrated 5-1/4″.

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    NAP Killzone entrance hole in foam

    This was the entrance hole in the foam mat that fronted the MDF and ballistic gel.

    Edge Retention Test (sharpness after Penetration Test 1)

    NAP Killzone post test sharpness

    Post-test sharpeness = 375.

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    07/11/2025 06:02 am GMT

    Penetration Test 2 (layered cardboard)

    NAP Killzone layered cardboard test

    The Killzone penetrated through 51 layers of cardboard.

    Angled Shot Test (1/4″ MDF/Carpet): No problem.

    I shot the Killzone into an angled MDF board… it penetrated it with no problem.

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    Durability Test (1/2″ MDF max 3 shots)

    NAP Killzone after 3 shots in MDF

    After the three shots in the MDF, one of the blades started to get pretty bent there. And then the base of the ferrule, the blades cut into that base on both sides pretty much. But overall, it held together pretty well.

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    Durability Test (22 gauge steel plate max 2 shots)

    NAP Killzone steel plate test

    Here it is after the two shots through the steel plate, and you can see, it held together, but not that great. Both of the blades got significantly bent and they are locked in that position. They would not open or close anymore. The ferrule got a bit narrowed and one of the blades is broken halfway through. And then, you can see the holes on the steel plate… they are a lot smaller than the actual cutting diameter. The blades kind of crunched down on the steel plate.

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    Durability Test (Concrete Block)

    NAP Killzone after concrete block test

    Here it is after impacting the concrete. And as you can see, that one blade that was pretty bent broke off and then the other blade that was pretty bent got even more bent. But, the ferrule held up pretty well. It also had a bit of a wobble. But, it did fairly well for an aluminum, really long-vented, ferrule like that.

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    Post-Testing Thoughts On The NAP Killzone

    So what do you think of the Killzone?

    Like I said in the beginning, I’ve used this head in the field and it has performed fairly well for me.

    One of the drawbacks has always been its penetration. It’s just never been a very good penetrating head, not just because it has got a big 2-inch wide cut, but it even penetrates less than most mechanicals that are rear-deploying with a 2-inch cut.

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    And, these tests just exposed a lot of the weaknesses that it does have in penetration as well as in sharpness and in durability.

    There are better heads that are on the market, but it doesn’t mean this can’t get the job done. It has killed a lot of animals. It has worked well for me. And if it’s your favorite, then great, more power to you. But, I do think that there are better options available.

    NAP Killzone Score card

    The NAP Killzone Scored 77.51 out of 100 possible points.

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    Also, I have to say, I was really surprised that it fell apart and lost its blades in the cardboard. That happened on a Rage that I tested a while back and I thought that was just kind of freaky. I guess cardboard is a tougher test than I realized! But, it held up through steel plate. That was really interesting.

    Anyway, it did relatively well, just not the best. But, check out the score sheet below, and good luck out there hunting!

    John Lusk archery goat

    John Lusk of Lusk Archery Adventures.