The view from the top of a mountain is often worth the climb. But can the same be said about deer hunting tree stands?

If you love hunting whitetail deer, it’s worth the time to find out before you spend your hard-earned money on a new one.

But, how can you know which type of stand is right for you?

We’ve compiled a list of the different types of deer hunting tree stands and the pros and cons of each. We hope this will help you make the right decision on which tree stand to use on your next whitetail hunt.

Before you spend your money, learn about the various types of deer stands below…

You can click the links below to jump straight to specific tree stand types:

• Ladder stands
• Fixed position tree stands
• Climbing tree stands
• Tree Saddles

Ladder stands

Many whitetail hunters prefer ladder stands when they want entry into their hunting location to be as quiet as possible.

When set up ahead of time, ladder stands allow a hunter to walk quietly to their location without running the risk of metal clanging or of a sweaty setup that could leave unwanted scent on the ground and in the air.

Quiet Entry

Some hunters believe that when compared to climbing tree stands, ladder stands allow for not only a quiet entry into the woods, but a quieter climb.

Because the stand is already set up prior to the hunt, access can be made without worrying about about assembly. (No loud scraping or searching for pieces and parts of multi-part climbing or lock-on stands.)

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Steady And Roomy

Some deer hunters also prefer ladder stands because they don’t feel as safe in climbing stands or fixed position stands like lock-ons. Or, they may simply be physically unable to use climbers or lock-ons.

Ladder stands tend to have large seats and side rails. If set up properly, they are typically secured well to a tree and very sturdy. Many come with the option of a shooting rail, which is a plus for rifle hunters. Ladder stands can also be used for bow hunting if shooting rail is removed.

There are also “buddy” type ladder stands which allow for more than one person to sit in the stand. This feature can be very useful for when you are teaching a child to hunt or hunting with a significant other.

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Ladder Stands… Is The Setup Worth It?

Some hunters don’t like to use ladder stands for deer hunting because they can be cumbersome to set up and can be easy to spot if not concealed well.

If you have any problems on your hunting land with theft, you might not want to go with a ladder stand. While they can require some sweat to take down and haul out of the woods, a hard-working thief might be up for the challenge.

Ladder stands can also require a “cleaner” tree for setup, as opposed to lock-on tree stands, which can set up without having to cut as many limbs. Some hunters prefer lock-on or hang-on tree stands, as opposed to ladder stands, because ladder stands are typically 20 ft or shorter.

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Ladder Stand Manufacturers

Some ladder stand manufacturers include:

• Millenium Treestands
• Muddy Outdoors
• Rivers Edge
• Big Game
• Hawk Treestands
• X-Stand
• API

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Ladder stand Pros:

• No setup during hunt
• Quiet entry and climb
• Can be used for rifle hunting or bow hunting
• Some ladder stands can accommodate multiple hunters
• Less taxing physically to climb

Ladder stand Cons:

• Setup can be cumbersome
• Tree type can affect setup
• Theft possible
• Difficult to conceal
• Limited stand height

Not wanting a ladder stand… how about “fixed position” tree stands?

Fixed Position Tree Stands

Fixed position tree stands include lock-on tree stands, sometimes referred to as hang-on tree stands. Lock-on tree stands are very useful when you know the exact location of where you want to have a stand.

For example, you may be hunting the edge of a food plot or attractant location that you know is traditionally well-traveled. Or you may  want to have multiple stand locations set up, so you can hunt a particular stand based on current wind direction or deer movement.

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Quiet, Light And Incognito

Lock on tree stands (or hang-on stands) are typically able to be set up quickly.

With the use of screw-in steps or stick ladders, they also are not as visibly disruptive to the hunting location as ladder stands can be.

While it’s not necessarily recommended to leave lock-on tree stands up year-round, they can be left up for the full season, allowing for quiet entry without disruptive noises that some climbing stands can produce. They also allow for a higher platform height than most ladder stands.

Lock-on stands tend to be much lighter weight than ladder stands, allowing for portability, easier pack and travel, and quick setup. Because screw-in steps and stick ladders can be used with hang-on stands, they also do not usually require as much limb trimming for that portion of the stand to be set up.

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While lock-on stands tend to be conducive to bow hunters, without the use of a shooting rail, these types of tree stands can be difficult for a rifle hunter. And, while most don’t have side rails and other movement restrictions, that can leave some hunters feeling unsafe in the tree. (It is important to always use a safety harness when climbing up and down any treestand.)

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Unless the hang-on stand you choose specifically has a large platform, limited foot space can be a concern for some hunters. So, if you like to have a lot of room to move around when standing, you should choose a stand with a larger foot platform.

Like ladder stands, lock-on stands can be the target of thieves. There are locking mechanisms available to serve as a deterrent, but a thief who is bent on stealing could still walk off with your lock-on stand due to its portability.

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Lock-On / Hang-On Stand Manufacturers

Some notable lock-on tree stand manufacturers include,

• Elevate Stand Co.
• Lone Wolf
• Millenium Treestands
• Muddy Outdoors
• X-stand Treestands

Lock-On Stand Pros:

• No setup during the hunt
• Lightweight
• Compact and portable for packing and travel
• Quiet entry and climb
• Allows for better concealment
• Great for bowhunters

Lock-On Stand Cons:

• Can feel less safe
• Theft possible
• Some lock-ons have smaller foot platforms
• Some not conducive to rifle hunting

Still looking for your ideal tree stand? Read about climbing stands below…

Climbing Stands

Some hunters consider climbing tree stands (climbers) to be the most difficult to use. However, with proper practice and safety precautions, climbing stands provide hunters with some advantages in certain hunting scenarios.

Climbing stands can be very useful when you are hunting land that you may not be very familiar with. Climbers give a hunter the ability to search for a hunting location that is has favorable wind and also provides the ability to climb to a higher point without the height limitations of ladder stands, for example.

Climbing stands typically allow for easy setup and removal, meaning that you can enter the woods with your stand and leave with it at the end of the hunt. This prevents theft and also allows a hunter to be truly mobile and not be limited to predetermined deer stand locations.

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Climbing stands can also pose some challenges in certain hunting situations. Unlike lock-on stands, climbers need trees with either no protruding limbs, or few enough so that they can be trimmed on the way up the tree.

Climbers also work best when the tree being climbed does not have a large discrepancy in diameter from the bottom of the tree to the height at which the stand will be secured for hunting. If the diameter changes drastically from bottom to top, the hunter may have to begin the climb with the foot platform at an uneven, and even steep angle. This can make climbing not only difficult, but dangerous as well. A properly fastened safety harness should always be used during climbing and at all times when in the deer stand.

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To Cover Or Not To Cover…

When it comes to cover, climbers provide both an advantage and a disadvantage, depending on the hunting location.

For example, you might have plenty of trees on a piece of property that allow for easy climbing. 

However, if there are no other trees near the tree you want to climb to provide some cover for you while in the tree stand, you could find yourself sticking out like a sore thumb. And, contrary to what some believe, deer can and do look up at times, especially if they hear or smell something suspicious.

It’s a good idea to climb near cover, so if that buck of a lifetime comes, you are not left wishing you had stayed hidden.

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Up, Up And Away…

Climbing stands can also be much more physically taxing than ladder stands or lock-on stands. And, the effort exerted can produce one of the most unwanted by-products during a whitetail hunt… sweat. A sweaty hunter is a smelly hunter. For this reason, some hunter choose other types of tree stands instead of a climber.

Because climbing stands have to be unpacked and attached to a tree, some hunters feel that the risk of metal clanging, and other unwanted noises, isn’t worth the mobility advantages they can provide. Once attached to the tree, climbing stands also will generate noise during a hunter’s  climb up the tree.

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Climbing Stand Manufacturers

Some notable manufacturers of climbing stands include:

• Summit Treestands
• Lone Wolf
• Muddy Outdoors
• API
• Ol’Man

Climbing Stand Pros:

• Mobility
• Easily removable to prevent theft
• Climbers allow for adjustable hunting height

Climbing Stand Cons:

• Climbable trees needed
• Potential for noise / sweat
• Limited cover
• Physically taxing

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Tree Saddles

Tree saddles are almost in a different category than other “treestands.” So, just how would you describe a tree saddle? Well, if you could imagine a cross between a harness for rock climbing and a hammock… that would be a hunting saddle.

Tree saddles provide the strength of a heavy duty harness but also are comfortable; like sitting in a hammock.

In many traditional tree stands, you sit facing away from the tree. However, with a tree saddle, you are sitting facing the tree, and therefore are able to use it for cover. 

Are tree saddles safe?

Unfortunately, many hunters don’t use any type of safety device with their tree stands. But one of the major pluses of saddle hunting is that the hunter doesn’t have a choice but to be safe while using it. This is because a hunting saddle connects to the tree by way of a built-in safety device.

So, under normal conditions, and when used per manufacturer’s instructions, it’s almost impossible for a hunter to fall from the tree. Whereas, a typical safety harness is designed to catch you if you fall from a tree, a tree saddle is designed in such a way that prevents the fall from happening in the first place.

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Are tree saddles comfortable?

If you’re going to be in a tree for an extended period of time, it’s normal to wonder, “am I going to be comfortable?”

The short answer is “yes,” tree saddles are in fact very comfortable.

Many users of tree saddles find that they are better the traditional tree stands. However, some can experience mild discomfort when using a tree saddle, such as “hip pinch,” or lower back discomfort, especially if they do not set up the saddle up correctly or if they use the wrong size.

Some users might experience discomfort simply due to pressure and angles that can be put on various parts of the body when hunting from a saddle. However, the more time you spend hunting from a saddle, the better your body will adapt to hunting from one. You will get in “saddle shape!”

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Tree Saddle Manufacturers

Some notable tree saddle manufacturers:

• Tethrd
• Trophy Line
• Aero Hunter

Tree Saddle Pros:

• Increased safety over traditional ladder, climbing and lock-on stands
• The ability to use the tree as camo/cover
• Portability and ability to shoot from 360 degrees
• Lightweight

Tree Saddle Cons:

• Soreness if not used to using tree saddle

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Conclusion

If you are trying to determine which of these types of deer stands might be right for you, we hope you have found this post useful. Best of luck on your next hunt and please practice safe hunting and climbing!

If you want to read another type of hunting “stand,” check our our article on permanent hunting blinds.

At the core of the arrow spine conundrum, we have stiffness. 

First, The Basics | What Is Arrow Spine?

The archery world has set a standard for arrow spine. Most companies follow it in this order: 

1. The higher the number (400 spine), the softer, or more flexible arrow. 
2. The lower number (250 spine) is a stiffer, or less flexible arrow. 

I like to say one is “bendier” and the other is less “bendy.” I’m not sure that is even a word…. oh wait, I said it, so it IS a word, because I. AM. SPECIAL. Ha!!

Anyhoo, here is a very high-level overview of arrow spine…

The standard is to press the center of each arrow shaft at 28” width with a gizmo. This “gizmo” (arrow spine tester) only pushes so far. The gizmo has a gauge showing pressure and it shows the amount the arrow flexes. If it’s a softer spine, it bends further. If it’s stiffer, it bends less. 

The arrow companies try to build a mixture of carbon and wall thickness to achieve consistent results to hit their targeted spine offerings. 

How Is Arrow Spine Measured (The Details)

The spine of an arrow is measured by supporting a 28-inch shaft at both ends, while hanging a weight (1.94 lbs.) from the center point of it. The amount of flex caused by the weight is then measured.

So, let’s say that an arrow shaft bends half of an inch when the weight is applied, then it would have a static spine rating of .500″.

Ok Class, Let’s Review!

So let’s review to be sure everyone is following the ‘ole Ranch Fairy’s tutelage…

Higher number = softer spine. 

Lower number = stiffer spine. 

Until you cut them. Then its tin foil hat time!

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Arrows, PVC and gardening wives… Just stay with me here

Since I like simple ideas, I am going to use one moving forward.

KEEP THIS PICTURE IN YOUR HEAD… You have a wife who is a gardener. (Of note, I have intimate knowledge of the following scenario… The names have been changed to protect the innocent.)

So anyway, this wife of mine, AHEM, I mean of yours, loves to plant new plants and RELOCATE existing plants and trees, despite the previously planted forest of plants and relocated plants. 

You also have a sprinkler system. 

This woman, to whom you are betrothed, is amazing at requiring a couple of her 10 plants to be planted right on top of a sprinkler line. Now, you suspect you’re going to hit a water line, but when, when, when????” (I mean, she doesn’t even have water witching sticks or anything to be considerate!!!)

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As you dig hole number 6 of 10, you feel the crunch/crush of PVC.  

Your day just extended. 

But, since you know this was inevitable, you have extra PVC supplies. So, you go get a stick of ½” PVC. It’s 10 feet long.

You grab the PVC in the middle to relocate it to your new “project.” There’s a certain amount of sag on both ends. But when you cut it down to 6 feet….what happens to the stiffness?

Ok – keep that in your head. I’m gonna add one more thing… If you have a full stick of PVC and only cut 1” off, or 1 foot off, or 2 feet off, does it stiffen with each cut? 

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PVC? I thought we were talking arrow shafts here!

When it comes to carbon arrows, it’s easy – there are only 4 spines… (RANCH FAIRY DISCLAIMER!! see caption below before you blow me up with your comments!)

Remember this… flying sticks change when you cut them! FACT.

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The reality is that there are gazillions of spine charts and programs out there. The quality of the information is wide and varied, so I am not going to worry about that now. 

I want you to understand what happens to the flying stick, when you change the length of that flying stick.

I have tested everything from here forward so, let’s get something real straight. EVERY minor length change to the stick, changes the stick.

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So, let’s say you snort the fairy dust and start with an arrow spine your bow shop may have selected. Or, you figured it out yourself.

Let’s say you require and tune up some 300 spine sticks. You’re shooting 60# at 29” draw and 225 grains up front. 

It’s flying great and you think this crazy Ranch Fairy guy might be onto something. So, you’re talking to your friend who shoots a twizzler and he’s been sad about bouncing arrows off animals.

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But, your buddy shoots 27” at 60#. 

I would still put him in a 300 spine. 

However, his arrow is 2” shorter. It started out at 300 spine but it’s cut shorter than 28” where the companies measure spine. ***Remember the PVC question?

So, this means that since you’re longer than 28”, where the spine is measured, (you are shooting at 29” long), your arrow now is roughly a 310 spine (softer).

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But, your buddy is shooting a 290 spine (stiffer), because he is 1” shorter than 28” where the spine was originally measured by the arrow company.

So, you aren’t shooting the same spine (300 spine arrows), even though it started with a 300 spine arrow and it’s the correct arrow for both of you to start with.

Are you having fun yet?

(Of note, the 310 and 290 spine are guesstimates, this is an example. Practically speaking, the shorter arrow is incrementally stiffer and vice versa.)

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I know it sounds like I am splitting atoms, but the more I do this, the more annoying this flying stick sport becomes. 

There are so many small (yet massive) details. 

So let’s say you spitball some arrows. You know 29” is the length that flies for you.

Life is dreamy!

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BUT, you decide to cut a few down to 28.5” so they are .06 FPS faster.

Seriously, the spine changes a little bit.  

Or, even better, you get a “deal” on 30” long arrows and decide that’s close enough.

NOPE – it’s not.  

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But I recommend you bare shaft and recheck everything, any change, for perfect arrow flight.  Heck – it might work….it might not. 

Oh, I don’t think it’s going to be doing loops. But, broadheads may be just that much different. They may wander 2” left or do some other annoying thing that changes a quick kill to a longer trail. 

There are more details… yup, super annoying! Yup, super massive! It would be a ton to digest all at once. 

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Arrow Spine (Not So) Final Thoughts…

At the end of the day, remember this about any Ranch Fairy video or article… I am only concerned with one thing.  Maximum arrow lethality on impact. 

Targets are boring. Perfect arrow flight to get the flying stick there is required. I have multiple videos on arrow tuning.  But read this and ponder. 

“An arrow is always flying, in the air, or in hair, meat, and bone, it is always flying”

Dr. Ed Ashby

If that arrow is a little sideways in the air at TAC, 3-D tournaments or your local indoor range, who cares?

One inch of penetration on a target is the same score as 12” of penetration.

But, at impact on any target animal, “The arrow is always flying.” Flying that arrow just a little sideways erodes penetration, and lack of penetration reduces lethality. Your goal is maximum arrow lethality. 

Stay tuned.