I have to hand it to Innerloc Broadheads. The Carnage mechanical head definitely a cool and innovative-looking head.
I had been wanting to test these for awhile to see if the innovation translated to stellar performance.
So, let’s take a closer look at these heads.
As always, in this testing, I used my Bowtech SR6 set at 72 pounds, 27-inch draw, and a 460-grain Bishop FOC King Arrow.
Innerloc Carnage Broadheads Up Close
Now, the interesting thing about these heads is the way the blades stay together in the closed position. They don’t use an O-ring (i.e. the Afflictor Hybrids). They don’t use a retention clip. So, how do they keep the blades closed until deployment?
They use a sticker.
What?
That’s right. A sticker.
I have to say, it’s creative and different. Not only that, but they have a variety of stickers to choose from. They even have a program on their website where you can design and personalize your own sticker.
The Innerloc Carnage expandable broadheads use stickers to hold the blades closed.
When it’s in the closed position, the Carnage has nothing exposed. That’s going to fly extremely well. I don’t test mechanical heads for flight because they all fly really well. But for this, I imagine it’s going to fly extremely well. I’d say that’s probably going to be its greatest super power is its flight, in addition to its cut size.
If you’re feeling really patriotic then you can go with this one. And what you do is you just wrap it around the blades. I will say, it’s not super easy, but it’s not rocket science either. Now, you’re ready for the 4th of July.
Here, we get a good look at the Carnage in a fully open position. The cutting diameter is 1-½ inches, which makes a really nice cut for a 3-blade head. The blades themselves are 0.040 inch thick, so they are thicker than most mechanical blades.The Carnage has a 1-1/2″ cutting diameter, which is very good.In the closed position, the blades tuck under like this. Then, with pressure on the tip, the blades are forced back. You can see how the blades come out from the back. And so, I would imagine they’re going to fully open upon impact, and you’re going to get that full 1-1/2″of cutting diameter. It’s going to stay that way all the way through, as long as there’s pressure on this little plunger tip.
Now, its durability and its penetration, I wasn’t really sure about. So, I was eager to put this head to the test and see how it performs.
In the edge retention test I push paper down on the blades of the broadhead after every two strokes of the edge of an Easton Hexx Shaft. This tests how well the blade holds its edge.
I ran the shaft of an Easton Hexx shaft across the blade for two strokes and then test. I will do process up to five times.The Carnage was still able to cut paper after 10 strokes of the arrow.
Penetration testing
For the penetration test, I shout the Carnage head into ballistic gel that was fronted with a rubber mat and 1/2″ MDF board.
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03/06/2024 08:50 pm GMT
Cardboard penetration test
In the cardboard penetration test, I shot the Carnage into layered cardboard to see how many layers it could penetrate.
The Carnage penetrated through 40 layers. And I might add, you notice how the blades set way back so that point, it’s like a nail, actually is what penetrated through the last several layers. But it did penetrate through the 40th layer.
The Carnage penetrated 7 inches. Here, you can see the entrance cut into the rubber mat that fronted the MDF and ballistic gel. Man, it did really well. Those blades perfectly opened and fully deployed upon impact. And you can also see the sticker that came apart there as it impacted.Upon further investigation, the Carnage broadhead after going through ballistic gel and mdf was missing one of the blades.It’s rare that a broadhead loses a blade just in this one layer of MDF, but that is exactly what happened. There are only two blades. And it’s not in the gel. You can see the gel only has two blades cut into it.I found it behind the rubber mat layer.It broke off at the pin that holds the blade in place.
Because the Carnage lost a blade, I never even got to where I tested it by shooting it into MDF (up to 5 times).
But, the biggest weakness is its durability. You saw what it did in the 1/2-inch of MDF when it lost a blade. I did the test again, just to be sure… this time it lost two blades. There’s just an inherent flaw in that pin that holds the blades together. It just seems to be breaking in some way.
So, I know a number of people have used these heads and hey, more power to you if you really like them.
But, I’ll tell you this, the Carnage is not going to make it in my quiver. But, check out the scores below and see what you think and see how it did in the areas that matter most to you.
But, how will it perform when I put it through my battery of tests for long-range flight, edge sharpness and edge retention, penetration, and durability? Well, let’s find out!
The Dirt Nap DRT broadhead.
I was eager to put the Dirt Nap DRT broadhead through all the tests that I do. So, let’s see how the Dirt Nap DRT performed!
The blades are 420J2 stainless steel 0.051 inch thick. They are not replaceable, but they are pretty thick.
The ferrule is made out of 7075 aluminum, which is a pretty stout aluminum. And this comes in 100 and/or 125-grain due to a removable washer that makes up the extra 25 grains.
If you keep the washer on, and you have a 125-grain head. Take it out, and you now have a 100-grain head. So, in a sense, it’s modular.
The DRT has a diameter in one direction of 1-3/16 inches.The cutting diameter of the bleeder blades is 5/8-of-an-inch.The DRT has a 25-grain collar, that if kept on the head, makes it 125 total grains (if you’re looking for a heavier setup).
In the out-of-the-box sharpness test, I give the blades of the head I am testing a stroke from a carbon arrow shaft and then see if the blade can still cut paper (up to 5 strokes of the arrow).
I run a carbon arrow shaft across the blades of the broadhead I am testing to see how the blades cut paper after being dulled in this manner. The Dirt Nap cut paper after all 5 strokes of the arrow.
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03/06/2024 10:15 pm GMT
Durability testing
In the durability test, I shot the DRT into a .22-gauge steel plate (up to five times) to test how well the head would hold up.
Here’s the Dirt Nap after going through the steel plate five times. And, on the positive side, the blades didn’t really fold over or break or bent terribly or come out of the ferrule. It all stayed intact. On the negative side, the blades did get really dinged up, and that was after the third shot. I would have had to call it for score purposes that it would have to be replaced at that point because they’re beyond just being able to be filed out.
Overall, the DRT did relatively well. And the holes themselves, you can see that nice hole, better than a 2-blade would be because you get that crosscut in there as well.
Expandable or fixed blades? Keep Reading!Fixed blade AND mechanical broadheads reviews videos are also further down the page!
Then there are single bevel edges and double bevel edges, chisel tips and cut on contact tips.
There are mechanical heads that deploy from the rear as well as those that deploy over the top.
There are hybrids (both fixed and mechanical in the same head), stainless steels, tool steels, aluminum, and titanium all of various grades and properties.
There are cutting diameters ranging from under one inch to over three inches and total head lengths of under one inch to over three inches and blade thicknesses of .020” to .080”.
And, of course, prices ranging from one dollar per head to one hundred dollars per head… and so much more.
It never ceases to amaze me how creative broadhead manufacturers can get. The trick is knowing which head to use in a certain situation or type of hunt.
So, bow hunters, how in the world do you make sense of it all? All the choices out there can make even an advanced bow hunter feel like a beginner. How do you know which heads are the best choices for you?
We’ll cover a quiver-full of things to consider when choosing broadheads in the article, so if you want to jump straight to your topical interest, you can click the appropriate one below:
While almost any head on the market today can “get the job done” with a good shot, it is still important to make sure you are using the right head for your bow and the game you are pursuing. After all the time, energy, and money you’ve invested in practice and preparation, your broadhead is where the “rubber meets the road.”
Be sure that you choose a broadhead that will fly accurately at your maximum range.
A little research and education can go a long way in making sure you are not disappointed after that hard earned shot. You will notice that I have provided some recommendations throughout this article. This is certainly not an exhaustive list, but I have personally tested each of these heads and found them to be among the best.
Fundamentally, you must keep in mind what really matters in a broadhead. Regardless of the brand and the design, there are several crucial factors that really matter.
Flight
A broadhead should provide you with absolute confidence in its flight. Consider what your maximum range is and make sure you choose a head that will fly accurately at that distance—even with some wind, a racing heart rate, and shooting while a little off balance.
Always make sure your bow is very well tuned (get help from a pro shop if you’re unsure) and you have the correct arrow spine for your bow’s poundage and draw length. Also, make sure the arrow spins true when the head is installed. You can spin it on your hand or on a table to confirm there is zero wobble to it.
Furthermore, the smaller the overall profile of the head, in length and width, the more forgiving it will be in flight. This is why mechanicals are often a good choice for long distance shots.
A broadhead should be be sharp and able to hold that sharpness after impact. How sharp it feels before it hits an animal doesn’t matter nearly as much as how sharp it is after it penetrates that first inch or two of hide, bone, and tissue.
If the edge chips or bends, it will not cut and penetrate effectively. This is why blades should be thick enough, and the steel strong enough, to hold their edge well. Broadheads with higher quality Tool Steels like 41L40, S7, and A2 shine in this arena.
(Some of the most durable heads I’ve ever tested in terms of edge retention are the Valkyrie heads. You can see my tests on this head here).
The ferrule of a broadhead must be able to withstand great force upon impact. I have had multiple heads, both fixed and mechanical, bend or break at the ferrule upon impacting an animal. That almost always spells disaster for a hunt.
Quality materials and solid construction make a big difference. The shorter, thicker, and higher quality the material of the ferrule, the better it will stay in tact. I prefer high quality steel ferrules over titanium and aluminum for this reason.
A broadhead must have sufficient cut size to cause great tissue destruction while still ensuring deep penetration. With any animal I shoot at, my goal is to get as wide of a cut as possible while still providing a good likelihood of a pass through. Two holes will almost always provide a better blood trail than one hole. Given equal penetration, a wider diameter cut will slice through more tissue than a smaller diameter cut.
In the past, I used a head with a cutting diameter of one inch and always got a pass through. However, I knew I could cut more tissue and still get a pass through. So, I increased the size of the cutting diameter of my heads, with great results.
Likewise, I have used a head with a very wide diameter cut and gotten poor penetration and no pass through. Finding that sweet spot between the two extremes is my goal.
A Dead Ringer Broadhead exit wound through three ribs and shoulder blade of a hog.
Match Broadhead To Your Quarry
So, I will even change heads based on what animal I am hunting. If I’m going to be hunting turkey or other smaller animals like javelina, I use a very large cutting mechanical head, because that will cut a lot of tissue and still allow for a pass through. For a bigger animal like a wildebeest or elk, I like to use a smaller diameter cut to make sure I am getting deeper penetration.
I have also found that when it comes to blood trails, cutting diameter is more important than total cut. Allow me to explain with an example:
A four blade head with a one inch cutting diameter will have a “total cut” of two inches. Likewise, a two blade head with a two inch cutting diameter will also have a “total cut” of two inches. However, with all other things equal (penetration and shot placement) the two inch cutting diameter head will typically leave a better blood trail than the one inch cutting diameter head—even though the same amount of tissue is cut.
The reason for this is that a smaller diameter cut is more likely to close up with tissue while the larger diameter cut is more likely to stretch and open up even more. I have seen this proven over and over again.
Another way to understand this principle is to “reduce it to the ridiculous.” Which head would you rather pass through your body: An eight blade head with one inch cutting diameter or a two blade head with an eight inch cutting diameter? Both will cut the same amount of tissue, but I would much rather have a one inch hole go through my body than an eight inch cut go through my body. Well, so would a deer!
Keys: Greater Tissue Cut with Pass Through = Greater Blood Trail Greater Diameter Cut with Pass Through = Even Greater Blood Trail
So before you read any further, keep in mind the fundamental goal in selecting a head: It should fly well, not break, holds its edge, penetrate deeply, and cut a lot of tissue. Strive to find that balance between cutting as much tissue as possible and still providing a good chance at a pass through.
Now let’s examine some of the most important features of broadhead design. The more you understand about each feature, the more effectively you can decide what works best for your set up and your budget.
There are three basic types of metals used in broadheads: aluminum, titanium, and steel. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Aluminum and titanium are lighter than steel, which is why many heads tend to use them. It is easier for a head to make it to the 100gr weight if aluminum or titanium are used.
Aluminum
Aluminum is not as strong as steel. The best aluminums hardened in the best manner are still only as strong as the weaker steels. And, some aluminums are much weaker than others. The best aluminum for broadheads is 7075, which is quite a bit stronger than 6061.
So, if you are going to consider using a head with aluminum, try to find one made of 7075. One such head, is the Zeus broadhead, from New Era Archery.
If the manufacturer doesn’t say which aluminum is being used, it is probably 6061. That doesn’t mean its “bad” but it does mean that it’s a bit “weaker.”
Titanium is stronger than aluminum. As with aluminum, there are different grades of titanium. Just because a head is said to be made of titanium doesn’t mean it is using the top grade. Typically, if the manufacturer doesn’t state what grade it is, it is probably the weaker grade. While titanium is stronger than aluminum, it is not as strong as many steels. Both titanium and aluminum have less resistance to impact than many steels, so I prefer that a head that at least has a leading tip made of well hardened steel.
Contact Tip vs Chisel Tip heads (post-testing).
Steel
There are many different varieties of steel and they are not all created equal. While steel tends to be stronger than titanium and aluminum, there are significant differences in the various types of steel. When it comes to broadheads, two of the most significant ratings of steel are Rockwell Hardness (the “hardness” of the steel) and Charpy V Notch Scoring (the steel’s resistance to impact).
A steel may be very hard with a high Rockwell Rating, but may be very brittle and break apart or chip easily upon impact with a hard medium. Likewise, a steel can have a lower Rockwell Rating and not break apart, but may bend too easily.
Most steel heads use a 420 stainless steel, hardened to a level that is not too hard and not too soft. From my testing, it is obvious that some manufacturers are more successful at finding that balance than others.
There are also heads that are being made of tool steels and even very high end tool steels, such as 41L40, A2, and S7. With these premium steels, you will find a very high Rockwell hardness as well as a very high Charpy V Notch Score. Such heads will retain their structural integrity and razor edge far more effectively than typical stainless steels. They will cost a lot more money, but they are much more durable as well so they will last a long time.
In many of the tests I have done, I am continually impressed by how well premium tool steels keep their edge. While a typical stainless steel blade may become dull after cutting through 1/2” plywood, a head made of A2 or 41L40 or S7 will still be sticky sharp after cutting though that same board 5 times. That no doubt makes a difference in how well tissue, bones, and veins are cut.
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A duller head can often just bend veins over, but a head that is sharp all the way through an animal will effectively cut those veins, producing greater blood letting.
Within steel heads there are also different ways the steel can be formed. Some use MIM (Metal Injected Molding), some are welded together, and some are machined. The machined steels tend to be much stronger than the MIM steels and welded models.
There are also a couple different types of construction of the heads themselves—component heads and single piece heads. Each has their advantages.
Component heads can be made with very tight specifications, as each piece is easier to construct than an entire head. These high specs can enable them to fly extremely well. They are then held together with some sort of interlocking design and bolt.
The best component heads do not use bolts that are load bearing, but rather that interlock, and then held in place by the bolts.
Single piece heads have the advantage of not being put together; they are literally one piece of steel. Thus, they tend to be more durable than component heads. But all single piece heads are not created equal.
As mentioned earlier, if the head is machined out of a single block of steel it will tend to be much stronger than a head that is metal injected molded or welded.
All other things being equal, the thicker a blade is, the stronger it is. The thinner a blade is, the weaker it is. Thin blades may feel sharper out of the package, but they tend to lose that edge and bend or get nicked up more readily than thicker blades. I prefer blades that are at least .035” thick, but again, the thicker the better. When premium tool steels are used, a blade can still be relatively thin and still very strong.
Like most other broadhead topics, this one can lead to a pretty heated debate. In theory, chisel tips are more durable and cut on contact tips penetrate better. You can see this difference by pushing both a cut on contact head and a chisel tip head through a piece of cardboard. It will likely take noticeably less pressure for the cut on contact head to penetrate. However, upon impact with a hard medium like bone, the cut on contact tip is more likely to fold over than the chisel tip.
From my testing, I only prefer a cut on contact head if is either a very thick two blade head made out of premium tool steel or a three blade single piece head, where all three blades come together to form the tip. Otherwise, the cut on contact heads are too likely to fold over. There are some chisel tips that are extremely sharp on their edges, like those of the QAD Exodus, or Wasp Dart for example. Those tend to have penetration closer to a cut on contact head but the strength of a chisel tip.
Many people prefer fixed blade heads over mechanical heads because they are more durable and dependable. There are no moving parts and fewer things to break. Fixed blade heads typically come in either two, three, or four blade models. Let’s briefly examine each of those:
These are a throwback to the proven designs of Native Americans and other similar societies around the world. They are simple, durable, accurate, and penetrate well. Two blade heads can either come in Single Bevel or Double Bevel Designs.
Fixed blade heads typically come in 2, 3, and 4-blade varieties.
A single bevel blade simply means that the edge of a blade is only sharpened on one side. A double bevel blade means that the edge of the blade is sharpened on both sides. There are advantages to each design. Typically, the choice between a single bevel or double bevel edge only comes into play with two blade heads.
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03/07/2024 07:43 am GMT
This does a number of significant things. First, it creates a spiral wound channel. I typically find that the entrance hole of a single bevel head is not a slit, but rather a hole. The arrow is already spinning so much and is forced to spin more upon impact, creating a rounded entrance hole in the hide of an animal. The head continues to cut tissue not only in the direction the head is pointing, but also in the direction the head is spinning—thus cutting both inwardly and spirally.
With internal organs, this can have a similar effect to spinning a fork when eating spaghetti, wrapping the noodles around the fork, then cutting them off. A twisting head can twist the organs and then cut them as the head moves forward. I have seen this happen inside an animal many times and the devastation is undeniable.
Second, a single bevel head typically breaches bone very effectively. As the tip of a head enters a bone, the head also twists and causes that bone to split apart and not just get cut. Then the arrow passes through that split in the bone. This is especially significant when hunting very large animals such as Cape Buffalo. If a head cannot effectively breach that bone, penetration will suffer.
A third way the single bevel head works is that due to its twisting inside an animal, it is not likely for the arrow to back out of an animal if there is not a pass through (try pulling one out of a target and you will see what I mean). Often times, heads are sharpened on the back edges to allow the heads to continue to cut tissue in all directions inside of an animal.
Double bevel heads do not have this spiraling effect. However, they can often penetrate more deeply for two reasons: First, they can be sharpened to a finer edge. Secondly, they are only cutting tissue in a forward fashion and not a twisting fashion. They will not typically breach large bone as effectively as a single bevel, they will not create a spiral wound channel, and the arrow can back out of an animal more readily than a single bevel. But, they will penetrate hide and tissue more effectively.
As for which is better, it really does depend on your bow’s set up and your quarry. If you are generating lower kinetic energy and need penetration to be as deep as possible, a double bevel may be a better choice.
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03/06/2024 11:22 pm GMT
If you have a bit more “normal” kinetic energy, or are hunting larger animals with heavier arrows, a single bevel will likely cause more damage to the animal.
From my testing, the only concern I have with two blade fixed heads is the size of the entry and exit holes. If an animal does not expire quickly, you are going to be forced to follow a blood trail.
Smaller diameter cuts do not allow the degree of blood letting that larger cuts do. There may be plenty of damage inside the animal, but the blood trail may be compromised.
Recommended Single Bevel Heads: Bishop Archery (Bridgeport/Pipeline), Cutthroat Broadheads. Recommended Double Bevel Heads: German Kinetics Silver Flame, VPA, Steelforce
Three Blade Heads
There are some great strengths to using a three blade head, as evidenced by their popularity on the market. Three blade heads tend to make more of a “hole” than a slit. This makes the hole more difficult to close up and facilitates better blood letting.
If the heads are a one piece construction with the correct angles, like VPAs or Bishops, you can easily sharpen two blades at a time by laying them flat on a stone and moving them back and forth, then rotating till all the blades are covered.
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03/07/2024 12:51 am GMT
Four Blade Heads
Some heads use a four blade design. Most of those have two primary blades, followed by two smaller, “bleeder” blades. Others use four blades that are all the same size, such as Slick Tricks, Wac’ems or Wasps.
From my testing, I have come to prefer a wider cut three blade head over a four blade head with smaller, equal sized blades. That fourth blade does cut more tissue, but it also impedes penetration more, and the hole is not as big as that of a wider cut three blade head.
A wider hole tends to produce a better blood trail than a smaller hole, whether it’s three blades or four. That being said, the four blade design of two larger blades and two bleeders is a very good option. They tend to be more forgiving in flight than a three blade head, all other things equal.
Whether you want a two leading blade cut on contact tip or a chisel tip is another question as well. See the earlier section discussing the pros and cons of these two designs.
Recommended 4 blade Heads: Iron Will, Trophy Taker A-TAC, Slick Trick Magnums, Magnus Black Hornet.
Mechanical Broadheads
Mechanical heads have come a long way in recent years. They have two primary advantages over fixed blade heads: Smaller surface area in flight (which allows them to be more forgiving in flight) and larger cut once the blades are deployed.
For example, even with a very well tuned bow, it would be quite difficult to shoot a fixed blade head with a two inch cutting diameter and have it fly well. But with a mechanical, you can get that two inch cutting diameter in a small, great flying package.
There are two primary styles of mechanical heads based on how the blades deploy upon impact.
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03/07/2024 03:36 am GMT
Over the Top Deploying
The first mechanical heads to hit the market worked this way. The blades are on hinges and folds upward toward the tip of the head. They are either held in place by friction or a rubber band.
Upon impact, the blades peel back like a banana would, opening up to their full cutting diameter. They will not open fully until after they have entered the animal, thus the entrance holes are basically the same size as the head in the closed position.
Recommended Over the Top Deploying Mechanicals: Rocket Steelhead, NAP Spitfire, Wasp Jak-Knife, Dead Ringer Trauma, Grim Reaper
Rear Deploying
Mechanical heads (pre-testing). There is no shortage of them to choose from!
In recent years, many heads have begun using various rear deploying mechanisms. With these heads, the blades swing open from the rear and are fully deployed by the time they reach the hide of an animal. Thus the entrance holes are the same size as the fully deployed blades.
Both of these mechanisms have their loyal followings and both can work well on animals. I have successfully taken many animals with both. However, there are some observations worth noting.
With over the top mechanicals, the entrance holes are small but the internal damage is great. They do tend to penetrate more deeply than rear deploying blades, simply because they cut less tissue upon entrance.
If they pass all the way through the animal, the exit hole is the full size of the fully deployed blades. But if they do not pass all the way through, you have a small entrance hole and no exit hole. That spells a big problem for blood trails.
With rear deploying mechs, the entrance hole will be great; it will be the size of the fully deployed heads. But because of that, penetration can be compromised because it has to cut through the hide with that wide cut. However, you can be confident you are going to have at least one big hole. Between these two styles, after all my testing I prefer the rear deploying mechanical heads by a large margin.
Recommended Rear Deploying Mechs: Rage Hypodermic and Trypan, NAP Killzone, G5 Deadmeat
Hybrid Broadheads
Several different manufacturers have come out with hybrid heads, which are a combination of both a fixed blade and a mechanical head. There is typically a smaller two blade fixed head followed by a larger cut of mechanical blades.
I have taken a number of animals with these and tested them quite a bit. They certainly have their niche. The only downside is that you will want to make sure you have enough kinetic energy to drive all those blades deeply into an animal. Again, I prefer the rear deploying mechanical blades in a hybrid head. If they are over the top deploying, you will not get a very big entrance hole and an exit hole will be fairly difficult to achieve due to the large cut.
Selecting a broadhead can be a pretty daunting task. And it gets extra confusing when all of your buddies each have their own strong opinions based on their personal experience from the last season. But you owe it to yourself and to the animal to make the most informed decision you can about which head is best for your purposes. Hopefully, this article will help you to make a bit more sense of the options and choices available.
For specifics on other heads that may not be listed in this article, click on the names/brands below:
List Of Broadhead Reviews on N1outdoors.com (Click To Read More!)
Please also check out my YouTube Channel as well, Lusk Archery Adventures, to see videos of broadhead tests and over 50 hunts with those heads as well. And don’t hesitate to contact me with any questions through the channel.
![A Huge Buck [And Other Unforgettable Bucks]](https://n1outdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/18-pt-300x300.jpg)
