When it comes to bow hunting, unless you shoot a long bow, there are two options to choose from: compound bows and recurve bows.
But what’s the difference between the two? And which one is right for you?
Well, I’ve taken a close look at both compound and recurve bows and put together this article to help answer those questions.
Let’s get started! First, let’s take a closer look at both types of bows.
On a basic level, a bow stores mechanical energy in it’s limbs as you draw back on the string, and then releases that energy when you let go of the arrow. Traditional longbows are limited in their range and power, which is where recurve and compound bows come in.
Recurve Bows
Simply put, a recurve bow is a longbow where the limbs curve away from the archer at the tips.
The limbs of a recurve bow curve back away from the archer; thus the name “recurve.”
This additional curve allows for a higher draw strength, which in turn increases your range and power with the bow versus longbows with no “re-curve.”
With a recurve bow, all of the draw weight is held by the archer. So, a recurve bow with a 70-pound draw weight requires that the archer holds that 70 pounds back until they release the arrow.
At full draw, the full weight of the bow’s draw weight is held by the archer. (Photography by Southwest Archery)
Compound bows, like this one pictured from Prime Archery, have “cams” that look somewhat like wheels on either end of the bow.
Compound bows use a system of wheels (known as “cams”) to literally compound the force of the draw.
Basically, this means that once you get the string about 3/4 of the way drawn back, the cams take over and do the heavy lifting for you. Unlike recurve bows, you aren’t left holding the full draw weight while you aim a compound bow. This reduction in draw forces is known as “let-off.”
The cams of a compound bow, like this one pictured above, literally “compound” the force of the drawback by the archerand also provides “let-off.”
Let-off works like this:
Let’s say you have an compound bow with a 50% let-off that is set to a 70-lb draw weight. This means that you’ll draw back 70 pounds, but once the let-off of the cams engage, you’ll only be holding 35 pounds. Then, when you release, the bow will fire at all 70 pounds because of the cams.
A compound bow’s “let-off” allows the archer to keep the bow at full draw without having to hold the full weight of the bow’s draw weight.
The answer to which bow type is better depends. So, let’s break it down by category.
Accuracy
Repeatability is important to accuracy in any shooting sport, and archery is no different. This means that the archer must replicate factors like draw distance and release, and these can be tricky to get right on a recurve bow, since the archer is holding the full weight of the draw while trying to aim.
For that reason, compound bows are much easier to be precise with.
Generally, most recurve and compound bows top out at 70 lbs of draw weight. You’d think this means they would both have the same amount of power, but actually, the sudden acceleration from the cams unwinding on a compound bow adds a little bit more power to the shot.
Winner: Compound
Weight
On a long hunt, a lightweight bow will be your best friend. The cams and extra string to run them make compound bows heavier than their more traditional counterparts.
Winner: Recurve
Maintenance
Since they don’t have any moving parts, recurve bows require very little maintenance to stay in top working condition. On the other hand, compound bows require more maintenance to keep the cam wheels working correctly.
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Accessories
There are all sorts of gadgets and doodads out there for the prospective archer to add to his bow. Not all recurve bows are made to allow for attachments, although some are.
On the other hand, compound bows are built to accept all sorts of accessories like sights, stabilizers, quivers, and more. Compound bows are sort of the AR-15 of the archery world: you can trick them out with all kinds of fancy add-ons, if you feel so inclined.
Winner: Compound
Cost
Recurve bows are generally less expensive to buy than compound bows. This is because the moving parts and additional assembly required to make a compound bow increases that cost.
A compound bow will be easier to maneuver up in a deer stand but heavier to climb with. A recurve bow, on the other hand, will be lighter, but the longer limbs may make it trickier to line up the perfect shot while up in the trees.
So, maybe you’re a bowhunting beginner, or just interested in trying a new method of shooting a bow. At the end of the day, I can’t tell you which kind of bow would be best for you. It really all depends on what you want to use it for, and on your skill level as an archer.
I can tell you that my aging shoulders prefer the assistance of the let-off of a compound bow these days. But, there’s something to be said for the feeling I’d get as a youngster, stalking prey through the woods with nothing but my recurve and a handful of arrows.
In addition to bow hunting, if you’re also interested in rifle hunting and are looking for a good hunting rifle for beginners, check out this handy guide. Then head over here to learn how to sight in a rifle scope.
The first indicator of a broadhead’s strength is the quality of the steel itself.
What kind of steel is it?
To simply say something is all steel is nice, but there is a wide range of steel types, so the quality of the steel is important.
Rockwell Hardness
The second indicator of broadhead strength is Rockwell hardness.
How is the broadhead hardened and to and to what degree is it hardened?
To increase sales, some broadhead manufacturers will state that the head has been hardened to “x” degree of Rockwell hardness. But, if it’s the wrong kind of steel to handle that hardness, it’s just going to fracture and even edge chatter and shatter upon impact, which a lot of heads do.
So, this makes Rockwell hardness important, but also how the hardness is handled by the material.
I did some in-depth testing on the Holy Trinity, as well as the rest of the Bishop line of heads… Keep reading!
Steel Composition
The third indicator of broadhead toughness is the composition of the steel.
In other words, how is the steel put together?
For example, is the broadhead made from multiple pieces of steel that are welded together? A lot of broadhead manufacturers do that.
Is the head made up of multiple pieces that are held together by a set screw or two? Many companies go that route.
It could be a single piece head that’s metal injection-molded (MIM). Or, it could a single piece that’s CNC machined, which is by far the toughest. In that case, it would be machined out of a single chunk of bar steel.
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Geometric Design
The fourth measure of toughness for a broadhead is geometric design.
How stout is the head? How thick are the blades? How supported is the tip of the head?
All these components of geometric design make a difference in the strength of the head.
Talk about thick! Look at the geometric design of the Holy Trinity head!
Why Bishop Holy Trinity Could Be The World’s Toughest Broadhead
So, knowing the four factors covered above in determining a broadhead’s toughness, here’s why I thought the Bishop Holy Trinity could be the toughest broadhead on earth.
Steel Quality of Bishop Holy Trinity
The first reason I say it could be the world’s toughest broadhead is, first, they used a proprietary S7 tool steel.
S7 tool steel is one of the toughest steels there is. It’s incredibly tough. And this one particularly, the tool steel that Bishop uses, has a Charpy resistance impact in the 90’s (Charpy V-notch testing is a way to resist the impact of something to that steel).
To put that in perspective, it’s more than four times more resistant to impact than stainless steel.
The steel of the Bishop Holy Trinity is then brought to a Rockwell hardness of 58, which is pretty amazing.
They can do that because of the type of steel that it is.
Steel Composition of the Bishop Holy Trinity
Then, the Holy Trinity head is CNC-machined, which is by far the strongest way a head can be designed. It’s very expensive to do that, especially out of that quality of S7 tool steel.
It’s really expensive but it’s also really tough.
Geometric Design of Holy Trinity
Super thick blades! And, the extra support structure give the Holy Trinity a triangular wedge-like feature in between the blades!
Fourthly, the geometric design of the Holy Trinity (the 200-grain specifically) is that it has a really short geometric design.
The Holy Trinity’s geometric design is shorter than others on the market like VPA.
VPA are great heads. But, the Holy Trinity is just a shorter, stouter design. So, it’s going to fly a little bit better than most other heads like that because it has a lot of surface area and it’s going to hold up better to impact because of that stouter design.
But, then the blades on this head specifically are 0.070 inch thick which is a really thick blade, one of the thickest on the market.
And then the 200 grain, unlike the 125 grain model, has an extra support that’s kind of like a blade in and of itself. It’s like a triangular wedge-type blade that is really thick.
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12/21/2024 09:17 pm GMT
Here’s a look from the rear of the Holy Trinity. Notice the thickness of those bladesas well as the triangular support in between.
For the thickness of the Trinity, it’s the sharpest it can get. It’s brought to an edge that’s going to cut through bone really well if something doesn’t get caught by the primary leading blades. It’s not a 6-blade head, but it’s almost like a 6-blade because it has the extra pieces in there that will make it more resistant to coming out of an animal as well.
So with everything about this, the type of steel, the hardness, the CNC machining, and the geometric design, this head certainly has the potential to be the “world’s toughest broadhead.”
I do a lot of research on broadheads. I don’t know anything that’s going to come even close to it except Bishop’s 41L40, their Bridgeport head that’s the same. It’s just a little bit lesser tier type of tool steel, but still way above most other tool steels that other heads on the market have.
Because of the blade angle, you can easily sharpen two blades at a time by laying the Holy Trinity down flat on the sharpening surface.
This head was straight out of the package and it was sticky sharp, which for a 0.070 inch thick blade, it’s as sharp as it can get.
You can sharpen the Holy Trinity just by laying them flat on a file or a diamond sharpener which is really nice.
You don’t have to sharpen every blade individually and you don’t have to worry about the angle. You just lay it flat and it sharpens two at a time so you just rotate it. So, as long as you do it evenly, it’s a super easy process to sharpen
So, let’s see how the Bishop Holy Trinity did against some really tough stuff.
Steel Plate Test
I shot the Holy Trinity head straight into the 16-gauge steel plate. Now, 16-gauge is pretty thick, and it’s much thicker than a steel drum. I wanted to see how the tip and blades would hold up and if it penetrates through.
In a previous test, I used 22-gauge steel. Then, I found some 16-gauge, and man, it took a chunk out of it. You can see that it made a pretty nice hole. And, the head stayed in incredible shape. It’s virtually unscathed. The blades went in about halfway. As you can see, the tip and the edges themselves are in incredible shape.
I’d heard shooting at porcelain tiles was a good way to test a broadheads toughness…
The next test of the Bishop 200-grain Holy Trinity was shooting it at porcelain tile. So, I stacked up 5 tiles and taped them together, so that they made one chunk of porcelain tile.
I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I had heard that it’s a good way to test head toughness. Let’s see what happened.
Well, I guess I should have used a lot more tile. I’m sure it would have gone through more, but it deflected off the end of the Rinehart and it buried into the Rinehart beyond the head.The tip got a little bit blunted to the side. The blades were scraped up somewhat, but still in good shape.
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12/21/2024 11:55 pm GMT
Cinder Block Test
The next test I did with the Bishop 200-grain Holy Trinity was the cinder block test.
After going through the cinder block, the head is in really the same condition it was after going through the tiles. Thet tip is a little less sharp than it was at the beginning, as are the blades. But, structurally, it’s in great shape. I put a file to it and it was be right back to normal.
The Verdict Is In on the Holy Trinity 200-Grain broadhead
So, the Bishop Holy Trinity is definitely incredibly tough.
The Bishop broadheads have all been phenomenal in every test I have put them through. Quite simply, they are in a class by themselves in terms of toughness and durability.
I would say the Holy Trinity 200-grain specifically is their toughest one because of its extra beefiness and the way they’ve added those extra ridges to strengthen it. Also, because this one is 0.070 inch thick. But, with that being said, all of the Bishop Holy Trinities are extremely strong.
I typically shoot the 125-grain but this one is going to get a little more blood. With the 1 and 1/8-inch cutting diameter of those extra 3 big wedge blades, they’re going to do some serious damage, and will hold up to anything the animal world throws its way.
Further testing of Bishop’s other broadhead offerings
I did some further tests on the other models of 3-blade, 1 and 1/8 inch broadheads that Bishop Archery makes.
As we have discussed above, they originally introduced the Bishop Archery S7 Tool Steel.
The Bishop broadheads lineup from left to right: The Pipeline, Bridgeport and the Holy Trinity.
Bishop Bridgeport Broadheads
And then they came out with the second line they called their Bridgeport Line. It has the same exact specs of the original Holy Trinity. It’s a 125-grain head.
They both fly exactly the same. But, the Bridgeport model is made out of 41L40 tool steel, which is actually the second most impact-resistant steel of any broadhead on the market today.
Bishop’s third line of broadheads is the Pipeline series. This series is made out of a really unique stainless steel that they came up with. I was looking forward to testing this head out.
It’s supposedly stronger and more impact-resistant than any other stainless steel on the market; even more than S30V and any other stainless steel broadhead out there.
In the following tests, there is a Rinehart target behind all of the mediums. That’s what’s stopping the impact.
1/2″ Plywood Test
I wanted to know how the edges held up, and all of them held up extremely well. They all still bit into my fingernail. I really couldn’t tell any difference in the three after this first test.
.22-Gauge Steel Plate Test
Next, I shot them through a .22-gauge steel plate.
I next shot the heads through a .22-gauge steel plate.All three of the Bishop heads held up really well against the steel plate. And, I hadn’t touched them up after the half inch plywood, but they all help up really well and still bit into my nail.
Timeout For Some Comparison Testing
Just for comparison sake, I decided to shoot a couple of other popular broadheads through the same mediums (wood and steel plate). I tested an Allen broadhead from Wal-Mart and the Muzzy Trocar broadhead.
Here is the 125-grain Allen head after shooting it through 1/2″ plywood. The tips are in good shape, but the blades got pretty jacked up.I guess that’s what you get for a $6 pack of broadheads.The 125-grain Muzzy Trocar held up really well and most of the blades could still shave a nail. There are some nicks in the blades. The tip is still in close to perfect condition. Overall, they held up relatively well.So, after shooting the Muzzy Trocar through the 22-gauge metal plate, this is what I ended up with. The tip is actually in good shape. The blades, not so much. I don’t know if you can see it, but they are marred beyond re-sharpening. All three of them are really dinged up. Also, the washer at the base that’s part of the broadhead is broken as well in one place. So, not bad. It made it through, but it’s not usable. I could replace the blades, but I would need a new washer at the bottom.The Allen broadhead did not fare so well in the steel plate test. The tip is actually broken off and each of the blades broke off. You get what you pay for here. (To see how all three of those Bishop heads came through this test pretty much unmarred is pretty impressive).
Cinder Block Test
Next I tested the heads by shooting them into a cinder block. First, I shot the Holy Trinity, then the Bridgeport, then the Pipeline. I also shot the Muzzy Trocar.
That was a really interesting test into the center block. The Muzzy bounced off and it had the most significant damage by far. The tip was completely broken off. But the Bishop heads are another story. The Bishop, the Bridgeport, and the Pipeline Holy Trinities all performed extremely well. And none of these heads were resharpened in between shots. And honestly, there’s just very little difference between any of them.
The Grand Finale | The 1/8″ Steel Flat bar test
So as the finale to these tests, I shot the Bridgeport and the Pipeline into a 1/8-inch steel flat bar. ( I had tested the S7 in a previous test, so I did not include it here).
The steel flat bar took a beating.Check out this flat bar! I was amazed at the force of impact even with these relatively light arrows, that they would put such a dent in this 1/8 inch flat bar. But, then both of them penetrated actually all the way through. Quite impressive. They left a nice little triangular hole in that which other heads have not been able to do.The Pipeline and the Bridgeport after the steel flat bar test.These heads have gone through like the half inch plywood and then the 22-gauge metal plate and then into center block, and now they’ve gone smacked up into a 1/8 inch flat bar of steel. And they have held up extremely well.
I am really impressed with what these Bishop broadheads have done. I’m also a bit surprised.
I’m especially surprised with the stainless steel Pipeline. Bishop thought they had something really good in that new steel they’ve been able to create and sure enough, it proved out.
Now, it’s really important to understand a couple of things here.
First, you might be asking, “why does any of this matter? Why are you shooting heads into steel, teak wood and concrete, stuff like that? What’s the point? It’s not an animal.
Well, that’s true. But, consider this. The Allen head that was destroyed… Is that, or another head like it what you want shooting into an animal?
Failure is not an option
Personally, I want a broadhead that I trust is not going to fail no matter what. And so, especially when I’m hunting a big animal like an elk or a moose, or a big hog or hunting in Africa on a trip I’ve invested time and money into, I don’t want a broadhead that’s going to dull or break in half, or lose a blade.
Will it work when it matters?
Secondly, you could take a head out of the box or packaging and have it shave hair like even that Allen did and like the Muzzy Trocar did and that’s awesome. But, it’s not how sharp it is as soon as it impacts the animal that matters, but how sharp it is as it goes through the animal that matters; how sharp it is when it comes out of the animal?
Some people say, “Oh, I don’t care if my broadhead gets destroyed, as long as it kills the animal.” Well, eventually, you’re going to have an animal that doesn’t die because the broadhead was destroyed. And, when your blades are getting all nicked up, they are not cutting tissue effectively all the way through.
So, you want a head that’s not just sharp upon impact, but that’s sharp all the way through that impact, through the tough hide, through the muscle and all the different forms of tissue; the tendons, the ligaments, the cartilage, and even through bone.
You want one that is going to keep penetrating extremely well all the way through, especially if it’s a big animal where depth of penetration makes a significant difference.
So, that’s how these Bishop heads show and prove their worth. They are able to take the toughest that there is and do extremely well through it.
I still shoot a lot of different types of broadheads based on the need I have and the conditions, as well as what animals I’m going after. But what you have here is the best deal, hardened in the strongest way and you have them CNC machined in the Holy Trinity as well as their two blade heads.
If you are planning to hunt at night, you will need a thermal or night vision scope to be able to acquire the target successfully. But, while both of these devices will allow you to see at night, there are differences between the two.
Each has its own dedicated application, and each has pros and cons.
Let’s take a look at the differences, so that you can easily choose the best option for you.
You need to know the basic difference between thermal scopes and night vision scopes so you can choose the one that’s perfect for your hunting situation. Hopefully, the following section will make the differences between the two clear. So, keep reading!
Thermal Scopes And How They Work
The word “thermal” refers to anything related to temperature or heat.
Thermal scopes detect the heat or temperature of the target and use the radiation to generate the image.
Thermal scopes detect the heat of a target and use radiation to generate the image.
The image can be generated in black and white or various colors depending on the device. The image will becomes lighter or darker with the increase or decrease of its radiation. Therefore, warm objects look brighter through the scope.
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12/22/2024 01:28 am GMT
Pros and Cons of Thermal Scopes
Thermal scopes have pros and cons just like any other.
Unlike night vision devices, thermal scopes can be used both in the day and at night. And, because they use radiation or heat source to render the image, you can easily detect objects even if they are hiding or camouflaged.
Some thermal scopes render images in colors.
In addition, thermal scopes can cover a larger distance than night vision scopes.
On the down side, during extreme cold, thermal scopes become blind.
Additionally, thermal scopes are heavier and more expensive than night vision scopes.
Night vision scopes work quite differently than thermal scopes. Some night vision scopes render images in a green hue and rely heavily on a light source to render them. The light source can be ambient, like that of the moon, the stars, or the surroundings.
If there is no light at all, the infrared (IR) illuminator is used to generate light. Luckily, the IR is not visible to the naked eye. Therefore, your prey will not be alerted.
Night vision scopes are lighter and also less pricey than thermal scopes. They are available in various models and generations. Therefore, you can easily choose one according to your budget and requirements.
You can go for a basic night vision scope if you are a beginner. If you are a pro hunter, you could go with one of the high-end night vision scopes.
Night vision scopes rely on a light source like the moon or stars.
Since night vision scopes rely on an available light source, an unfavorable environment can affect the visibility. For example, in the fog, rain, snow, and dust, night vision devices are not as effective.
Additionally, night vision scopes can’t cover long distances as well as thermal scopes can.
While hunting at night, you need to identify the target as your desired predator or animal, otherwise, you may end up shooting something else. And, the choice between night vision and thermal scopes depends on the shooting environment.
Thermal scopes can detect animals from long distances, but could be confusing for hunters if there are other moving targets in the field of view.
Thermal Scopes
Thermal scopes can easily detect animals or moving objects from a long distance whether it is day or night. Their detection is better than night vision scopes. Even in the roughest weather, they can help you see (except in extreme cold).
However, one thing to keep in mind is that thermal scopes render images in black and white, or in shades of multiple colors, which may be confusing for hunters and shooters if there are other moving objects in the target area. If this is not going to be an issue for you, then a thermal scope would work fine.
Night vision scopes can render higher-resolution images than thermal scopes. They use ambient light sources or the IR to help you see in the dark.
Through night vision scopes, you can easily detect your targeted game even if there are other moving objects since, you are getting almost the actual image.
However, during rough weather, night vision scopes can be blind. You also will not be able to find your prey if it is camouflaged or hiding behind an obstacle.
If there is no available ambient light, night vision scope users need an infrared illuminator to be able to view in the dark.
Night vision devices are light-sensitive and can be damaged with bright light exposure.
In short, thermal scopes are good for detection and can be used in almost all conditions. On the other hand, night vision scopes are to be used at night and can render better images.
