Thanks for checking out my review of the G5 Striker X broadhead.
In this review, thanks to a friend who sent me a test pack, I tested a really popular broadhead that I’ve gotten a lot of requests about. I hope this review is of benefit to the bowhunting community!
The G5 Striker X Up Close…
Let’s take a close look at the G5 Striker X.
The G5 Striker X is all-steel construction with a steel ferrule, steel tip, and steel replaceable blades. By my measurements, the blades are 0.032 inches thick based on the measurements with my micrometer.
You’ll notice that the blades of the Striker X are fairly vented. That’s going to make them probably a little bit loud in flight, which doesn’t really bother me in a broadhead. Arrow noise has really never bothered me and I’ve taken animals all over the world.
The fact that the blades of the Striker X are so vented could spell problems for durability, so we’ll dive into that in our testing.
Notice the dimple and the “scooped” ferrule on the Striker X broadhead.
Now, the tip of the Striker X is a really stout, all-steel chiseled tip. It’s not as sharp as some chiseled tips like the Grim Reapers, which are super sharp, or the QAD Exodus heads. However, the Striker X has just got a decent edge to its tip, it’s just not really that sharp.
It has a dimple that begins like a scoop, begins at the back of the tip and then goes down the ferrule. That’s going to aid in penetration and aid in flight as well. It makes it a bit more streamlined and aerodynamic.
To make the weight of having 4 blades, they have to be relatively thin and relatively vented. But again, they held together through four shots. And the tip got a little bit blunted, but it actually held together very well. It was still in good enough shape to sharpen out and use again.
The blades experienced quite a bit of edge chatter after the first shot. The chatter then increased with each subsequent shot.
Here, you can see the wound channel in the steel plate and you can see that square hole in the middle and then the four slits coming off of it. Now, there’s other 4-blade broadheads that make a better square hole than this. This is more of like the hole within the slits rather than a bigger square. So it’s a decent wound channel but there are other broadheads that make a better wound channel with the same cutting diameter.
So, after this test, these blades are not reusable. You would have to file away way too much in order to use them again. It held together better than some, not as well as others.
The head did still spin true, though. So, the ferrule didn’t bend, which is a by-product of that all-steel construction.
Here’s a look at the hole the Striker X put in the cinder block.
How about a shout-out to the Bishop FAD Eliminator Arrows? I’ve lost count how many times I’ve shot this one arrow into concrete!
Here’s the head after impact in the concrete, spins extremely well. The only damage you can see is that the tip got a little bit rolled over, a little bit curled there and blunted on the end. The edges of the tip, they got blunted as well, but they held up well and the structural integrity of the head is just fantastic.
Deer are amazing animals, and they do some very unique things. One of these things is making scrapes throughout the woods.
Scrapes are one of the best ways that deer are able to communicate with each other through the scent that they leave behind, and it can also mean some amazing hunting for outdoorsmen and women who know how to find and identify a scrape.
But, what exactly are scrapes, and how do you find them? How do deer make them and why do they even do it? Let’s take a deeper look into deer scrapes and answer all of these questions so that you can use them to your advantage this hunting season!
By learning about scrapes and how bucks use them, you can greatly increase your chances of harvesting a buck.
What are Deer Scrapes?
To start, it is important to understand exactly what a scrape is. A deer scrape is essentially a bare patch of ground that is usually in the shape of an oval or triangle and has an overhanging limb, called a licking branch, above it.
If you are not paying close attention, they can be very easy to miss.
A scrape is one method that deer will use to communicate through scent and takes advantage of their incredibly powerful sense of smell.
Deer have several scent glands throughout their body in order to leave scent messages, including when they deposit them through a scrape. Their scent is put on the exposed soil as well as the overhanging branch so that other deer can smell it too.
Bucks will use overhanging branches or vines to leave behind glandular scent.They will often lick and chew them as well.
When a buck goes to make a scrape, he will usually begin by rubbing his head and face on the branch. This allows his forehead, nasal, and preorbital glands to get their scent on the overhanging branch or vine.
It’s not uncommon to see them even lick and chew on the branch as well. This can take anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute or two. He will then start to paw at the ground to remove all of the fallen leaves and other debris underneath it.
In this video clip, a young buck urinatesand rubs his tarsal glands together while standing over a scrape.
Once the deer has unearthed enough fresh soil, he will then urinate in the small area he has dug up, leaving behind the freshly scented scrape for other deer in the area to find and smell.
The entire scraping process can take less than a few minutes, but a buck can leave behind an incredible amount of scent during this time.
Does will also use scrapes to leave urine and other glandular scents.
If there is a fresh scrape nearby, you will know it is an active location that could potentially yield some excellent results. Of course, you can always confirm this by setting out a trail camera in the area or on the scrape itself.
If you decide to place a trail camera on the scrape, make sure that it is facing the scrape and that there are no obstructions.
When the trail camera captures pictures, this should give you a good idea of what time of day the bucks are coming by and what direction they are traveling. Using this information, you can decide if you should hunt near or over the scrape.
Scrapes are also excellent at getting deer to pose for a trail camera, as they will almost always stop to smell a scrape. This can mean a great shot opportunity with a bow and arrow if you are hunting over one, as the buck should be standing still for you to shoot.
One of the biggest challenges with archery hunting is not only getting within range of a mature buck, but getting him to stand still long enough for an ethical shot. An active scrape could potentially help with both of these challenges!
To best hunt over a scrape, try using a treestand that is within bow range of the scrape itself. This ensures that when a deer stops to smell everything, you can be in range and take advantage of the opportunity.
While ground blinds and box blinds can also work, treestands will conceal you much better and keep your own scent off the ground and away from the scrape.
The view from the top of a mountain is often worth the climb. But can the same be said about deer hunting tree stands?
If you love hunting whitetail deer, it’s worth the time to find out before you spend your hard-earned money on a new one.
But, how can you know which type of stand is right for you?
We’ve compiled a list of the different types of deer hunting tree stands and the pros and cons of each. We hope this will help you make the right decision on which tree stand to use on your next whitetail hunt.
Before you spend your money, learn about the various types of deer stands below…
You can click the links below to jump straight to specific tree stand types:
Many whitetail hunters prefer ladder stands when they want entry into their hunting location to be as quiet as possible.
When set up ahead of time, ladder stands allow a hunter to walk quietly to their location without running the risk of metal clanging or of a sweaty setup that could leave unwanted scent on the ground and in the air.
Ladder stands with shooting rails can be extremely useful for rifle hunters.
Some hunters believe that when compared to climbing tree stands, ladder stands allow for not only a quiet entry into the woods, but a quieter climb.
Because the stand is already set up prior to the hunt, access can be made without worrying about about assembly. (No loud scraping or searching for pieces and parts of multi-part climbing or lock-on stands.)
Some deer hunters also prefer ladder stands because they don’t feel as safe in climbing stands or fixed position stands like lock-ons. Or, they may simply be physically unable to use climbers or lock-ons.
Ladder stands tend to have large seats and side rails. If set up properly, they are typically secured well to a tree and very sturdy. Many come with the option of a shooting rail, which is a plus for rifle hunters. Ladder stands can also be used for bow hunting if shooting rail is removed.
There are also “buddy” type ladder stands which allow for more than one person to sit in the stand. This feature can be very useful for when you are teaching a child to hunt or hunting with a significant other.
Some hunters don’t like to use ladder stands for deer hunting because they can be cumbersome to set up and can be easy to spot if not concealed well.
If you have any problems on your hunting land with theft, you might not want to go with a ladder stand. While they can require some sweat to take down and haul out of the woods, a hard-working thief might be up for the challenge.
Ladder stands can also require a “cleaner” tree for setup, as opposed to lock-on tree stands, which can set up without having to cut as many limbs. Some hunters prefer lock-on or hang-on tree stands, as opposed to ladder stands, because ladder stands are typically 20 ft or shorter.
Some ladder stands can accommodate multiple hunters
Less taxing physically to climb
Ladder stand Cons:
Setup can be cumbersome
Tree type can affect setup
Difficult to conceal
Limited stand height
Not wanting a ladder stand… how about “fixed position” tree stands?
Fixed Position Tree Stands
Fixed position tree stands include lock-on tree stands, sometimes referred to as hang-on tree stands. Lock-on tree stands are very useful when you know the exact location of where you want to have a stand.
For example, you may be hunting the edge of a food plot or attractant location that you know is traditionally well-traveled. Or you may want to have multiple stand locations set up, so you can hunt a particular stand based on current wind direction or deer movement.
Lock on tree stands (or hang-on stands) are typically able to be set up quickly. With the use of screw-in steps or stick ladders, they also are not as visibly disruptive to the hunting location as ladder stands can be.
While it’s not necessarily recommended to leave lock-on tree stands up year-round, they can be left up for the full season, allowing for quiet entry without disruptive noises that some climbing stands can produce. They also allow for a higher platform height than most ladder stands.
Lock-on stands are ideal for bow hunters, but if you feel the need to have a lot of standing room, you will want to choose a stand with a larger platform.
Lock-on stands tend to be much lighter weight than ladder stands, allowing for portability, easier pack and travel, and quick setup. Because screw-in steps and stick ladders can be used with hang-on stands, they also do not usually require as much limb trimming for that portion of the stand to be set up.
While lock-on stands tend to be conducive to bow hunters, without the use of a shooting rail, these types of tree stands can be difficult for a rifle hunter. And, while most don’t have side rails and other movement restrictions, that can leave some hunters feeling unsafe in the tree. (It is important to always use a safety harness when climbing up and down any treestand.)
Unless the hang-on stand you choose specifically has a large platform, limited foot space can be a concern for some hunters. So, if you like to have a lot of room to move around when standing, you should choose a stand with a larger foot platform.
Like ladder stands, lock-on stands can be the target of thieves. There are locking mechanisms available to serve as a deterrent, but a thief who is bent on stealing could still walk off with your lock-on stand due to its portability.
Still looking for your ideal tree stand? Read about climbing stands below…
Some hunters consider climbing tree stands (climbers) to be the most difficult to use. However, with proper practice and safety precautions, climbing stands provide hunters with some advantages in certain hunting scenarios.
Climbing stands are great for portable hunting, but require the tree you are wanting to hunt from to be free of limbs that would restrict climbing.
Climbing stands typically allow for easy setup and removal, meaning that you can enter the woods with your stand and leave with it at the end of the hunt. This prevents theft and also allows a hunter to be truly mobile and not be limited to predetermined deer stand locations.
Climbing stands can also pose some challenges in certain hunting situations. Unlike lock-on stands, climbers need trees with either no protruding limbs, or few enough so that they can be trimmed on the way up the tree.
Climbers also work best when the tree being climbed does not have a large discrepancy in diameter from the bottom of the tree to the height at which the stand will be secured for hunting. If the diameter changes drastically from bottom to top, the hunter may have to begin the climb with the foot platform at an uneven, and even steep angle. This can make climbing not only difficult, but dangerous as well. A properly fastened safety harness should always be used during climbing and at all times when in the deer stand.
When it comes to cover, climbers provide both an advantage and a disadvantage, depending on the hunting location.
For example, you might have plenty of trees on a piece of property that allow for easy climbing. However, if there are no other trees near the tree you want to climb to provide some cover for you while in the tree stand, you could find yourself sticking out like a sore thumb. And, contrary to what some believe, deer can and do look up at times, especially if they hear or smell something suspicious. It’s a good idea to climb near cover, so if that buck of a lifetime comes, you are not left wishing you had stayed hidden.
Up, Up And Away…
Climbing stands can also be much more physically taxing than ladder stands or lock-on stands. And, the effort exerted can produce one of the most unwanted by-products during a whitetail hunt… sweat. A sweaty hunter is a smelly hunter. For this reason, some hunter choose other types of tree stands instead of a climber.
Because climbing stands have to be unpacked and attached to a tree, some hunters feel that the risk of metal clanging, and other unwanted noises, isn’t worth the mobility advantages they can provide. Once attached to the tree, climbing stands also will generate noise during a hunter’s climb up the tree.
Tree saddles are almost in a different category than other “treestands.” So, just how would you describe a tree saddle? Well, if you could imagine a cross between a harness for rock climbing and a hammock… that would be a hunting saddle.
Tree saddles provide the strength of a heavy duty harness but also are comfortable; like sitting in a hammock.
In many traditional tree stands, you sit facing away from the tree. However, with a tree saddle, you are sitting facing the tree, and therefore are able to use it for cover.
The ability to shoot in all directions is just one reason tree saddle hunters rave about them.
Are tree saddles safe?
Unfortunately, many hunters don’t use any type of safety device with their tree stands. But one of the major pluses of saddle hunting is that the hunter doesn’t have a choice but to be safe while using it. This is because a hunting saddle connects to the tree by way of a built-in safety device.
So, under normal conditions, and when used per manufacturer’s instructions, it’s almost impossible for a hunter to fall from the tree. Whereas, a typical safety harness is designed to catch you if you fall from a tree, a tree saddle is designed in such a way that prevents the fall from happening in the first place.
Are tree saddles comfortable?
If you’re going to be in a tree for an extended period of time, it’s normal to wonder, “am I going to be comfortable?”
The short answer is “yes,” tree saddles are in fact very comfortable.
Once your body is “saddle ready,” tree saddles, like this one from Tethrd, can provide a very comfortable hunting experience.
Many users of tree saddles find that they are better the traditional tree stands. However, some can experience mild discomfort when using a tree saddle, such as “hip pinch,” or lower back discomfort, especially if they do not set up the saddle up correctly or if they use the wrong size.
Some users might experience discomfort simply due to pressure and angles that can be put on various parts of the body when hunting from a saddle. However, the more time you spend hunting from a saddle, the better your body will adapt to hunting from one. You will get in “saddle shape!”
Increased safety over traditional ladder, climbing and lock-on stands
The ability to use the tree as camo/cover
Portability and ability to shoot from 360 degrees
Tree Saddle Cons:
Soreness if not used to using tree saddle
If you are trying to determine which of these types of deer stands might be right for you, we hope you have found this post useful. Best of luck on your next hunt and please practice safe hunting and climbing!