ranch fairy holding high foc arrows

High FOC In Bowhunting | It’s About Impact

Trust me, I am not trying to cause a problem with all this heavy arrow stuff.

I was failing.

The Ranch Fairy and promotion of high FOC (Front of Center) arrow systems began because of failure at impact. 

High FOC Arrows | How and why they began to matter

Ok, so here’s the abridged version of how and why high FOC arrows became so important to me.  

I really like fishing, bowhunting, and shotguns.  (Of course, after 30 years of marriage – and still going – Mrs. Fowler is awesome too). 

ranch fairy troy fowler with dead hog and iron will broadhead

Do you want exit wound when encountering humerus breaks, shoulder blades, and spinal columns? High FOC is the answer.

So anyway, I killed a 150” deer in 2009 and just lost interest for “deer” hunting.  I became an adult along the way (which surprised me too), had kids, and helped them become quite competent adults and outdoors folks.

I did NOT, however, lose my love for hunting mature, feral hog boars.  They are every bit as challenging as a cagey whitetail, with additional features. Mostly, they suck up arrows like a vacuum and run off laughing. 

FOC stands for “Front Of Center” (or Forward of Center), which indicates what percentage of the overall arrow weight is in front of the balancing point, or “center” of the arrow.

When you ask the guys at the local shop why they get away so often, they say something like, “big boars are just tough.” 

That’s it?  Just keep trying what you’ve got?  We don’t know anything else but “shoot fast and shoot a mechanical, ’cause they make huge holes?”

I was doing both (plus some fixed blades… guess we aren’t supposed to admit that!)  

Ever had THIS issue when hunting?

I nearly quit bowhunting

At one time, I was below a 50% kill rate on big boar hogs. And bro’, I live in Texas… we use bait, and shoot at known distances! 

Still, 90% of the pigs I killed (or lost) had 12 or more inches of arrow sticking out of them.  

There were poor blood trails, long nights, and lots of magically disappearing pigs. 

So, I almost quit bowhunting the big pigs.  I mean, I have guns.  After all, they are, as my buddy Chris says, “very efficient”.  

Enter one Dr. Ed Ashby and his incredibly in-depth Natal Study. 

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Piebald deer: Would you shoot one of these?

Ed Ashby to the rescue

In his Natal Study, Ed Ashby identified 12 arrow penetration enhancing factors (visit www.ashbybowhunting.org for more information). 

I start reading and my mind starts melting!

He’s preaching: structural integrity, perfect arrow flight, rigid one piece single bevel broadheads, 350 grain points and inserts…..650 grain arrows?

ARE YOU KIDDING?

ed ashby with an archery asiatic buffalo

Dr. Ed Ashby, here with an asiatic buffalo, stresses the importance of structural integrity and perfect arrow flight.

I had no other thing to try. The archery shop “dock talk” wasn’t working.  

Now, this is not a popular thing, circa 2013. I mean, it’s completely irrational, right?

Except Ed was regularly killing Asiatic buffalo, including exit holes, and he had a couple rhino’s, with a bow, as a kicker. 

Oh, and just to check the man card, he used traditional gear. (That’s right, longbow, recurve, etc).

So, I jumped off the bridge with high FOC arrow builds and never looked back.  What did I have to lose?

Check out our easy-to-use arrow speed calculator!

Fast forward 7 years and hindsight being what it is, bowhunting is very simple… bowhunting is 100% equivalent to what happens at impact.

And, how much penetration your arrow achieves will increase your success; not the bow, stabilizer, or whiz bang back tension release, or a miracle peep sight. 

The broadhead and arrow kill the animal. 

Which one is best?  Let’s move on.

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Murphy’s Law (Anything that can go wrong will go wrong) certainly applies to bowhunting. But, what if we could have things go RIGHT more often?

What is a high FOC arrow?

So, Fowler “land the plane man!”  Get on with it… “what is a high FOC arrow?” 

And some other FOC-related questions:

  • “What’s considered high FOC?”
  • “Can you have too much arrow FOC?”
  • “What is a good FOC for hunting”
  • “Is arrow FOC overrated?”

Now, before we continue, you must realize that FOC or “front of center” is the measure of how much total arrow mass is in the front. The industry says 8-12% FOC is normal. 

So, let’s chat this up…

A high FOC arrow starts around 15% and can go up to 30%.

The N1 Outdoors YouTube Channel is HERE!

Just as a comparison, we are talking about 100 grain points (low FOC) vs 300-350 grain points (High FOC). 

So, I’d agree wholeheartedly that 8-12% is normal FOC. But that doesn’t answer a simple bowhunting question. “Is that the optimal arrow FOC from bow to animal i.e., “in flight” or is it the optimal arrow FOC to get through the deer, hog or other animal?” 

The industry just leaves that as an assumption while moving on to bow tuning and other shenanigans.

Now THIS is a funny bowhunting commercial!

How to calculate the FOC of an arrow

To determine the front of center (FOC) of your arrow, first install the inserts, points/broadheads, wraps, vanes, nocks, etc that you will be using on the arrow shaft. Once you have completed your arrow setup use the equation in the graphic below: 

foc equation graphic
  1. Divide the length of the arrow (indicated by “L” in the graphic above) by 2.
  2. Find the balance point. (The balance point is where the arrow balances perfectly on your finger or other object). Mark the balance point and measure the distance from that point to the bottom of the groove of the nock (this distance = “A” in graphic above).
  3. Subtract center of the arrow measurement (calculated in step 1) from the balance point measurement (calculated in step 2).
  4. Multiply the result from step 3 by 100.
  5. Divide the result from Step 4 by the arrow’s overall length (L). This result will be the FOC of your arrow.

FOC Calculator

If you don’t want to take the time to do the math to find your arrow’s FOC, you can always use an FOC calculator. Just be sure your arrow has the inserts, points/broadheads, wraps, vanes, nocks already installed.

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Click Here to use our FOC Calculator

The benefits of high FOC arrows

Before we jump off the FOC bridge, let’s clarify some things. 

  • Ashby Rule #1 – Structural Integrity: The arrow and broadhead system cannot fail, bend, or redirect at impact. 
  • Rule #2 – Arrow Flight: Perfect arrow flight is the enabler to penetration, when rule #1 is achieved. 

Structural integrity

Just so you know, I bare shaft tune each individual arrow before fletching, using the point weight I want to achieve for higher FOC.  I suggest you do the same. 

High FOC arrows often carry 300+ grain point or point / insert systems.  This places a tremendous amount of impact energy into a very small area, pulling the arrow into the target. 

high foc field points

Heavier inserts and field points/broadheads will help increase your arrow’s FOC.

Think of it like this.  You’re shooting a 300-grain bullet with a tail.  With lower FOC, you have a long object pushing a light point into sinew, meat, and bone. 

It’s like hitting a nail with a hammer. 

So, if you miss-hit the nail a little and your “arrow” goes sideways – it kills penetration. 

But, what if we could pull the nail into the board?  (Structural integrity, perfect flight assumed – you have to do that first).

Mule deer and whitetail: Learn the differences!

Arrow flight

A second benefit of high FOC arrows is great arrow flight, which increases accuracy. 

During my journey, somewhere around 16% FOC, I started to see much more consistent grouping. It was like I was a better shot.  It just doesn’t take as much concentration on form and grip, etc. 

The heavier points, after proper bare shaft tuning, seem to pull the arrow along, and the fletch is just back there stabilizing the end of the arrow. 

ranch fairy troy fowler with feral hog

Since switching to high FOC arrows, my kill rate on tough feral hogs has gone to nearly 100%.

Make your own lighted nocks and save money!

Better broadhead choice

Finally, the jump to these higher FOC arrow systems almost requires you to buy better broadheads, made of great steel. 

It’s not uncommon to have tool grade steels. The heads are machined, one-piece, and .08 thick. 

They are solid.  No fail points – (Rule #1 – Structural Integeriy… CHECK!)

For the bowhunter, this discussion may seem a bit off the rails. I would agree. The FOC town has an idiot, and I am he. 

However, my pig killing stats have gone to almost 100%.  Literally, if one gets away, I made a non-vital hit, and that’s on me. 

But, the adult arrows don’t fail anymore.  My arrows don’t break, the broadheads don’t bend or dull on impact, and penetration is almost always into the dirt (unless I hit a big off-side bone, which usually breaks, and turns the pig into a three-wheel drive unit. Pigs have short legs, so from an elevated position, its common to hit the ground before it passes through.) 

Do you know the Kinetic Energy and Momentum of your arrow? Find out!
Interactive compound bow diagram – check it out!

Final Thoughts On High FOC

In closing, I am vitally aware a “normal” arrow system kills millions of critters a year of all sizes. 

Mechanical broadheads, the same. I got that. I’ve done it. 

But, what if you had an arrow system you knew, for a fact, was going to achieve an exit wound in the absolute highest number of situations – all  impact side humerus breaks, shoulder blades broken, and spinal columns snapped with almost 100% efficiency?   

What if we accept Mr. Murphy is still alive and well, but we used a tool to level that playing field?  

The next time you see your hunting arrow, you should ask, “Is my arrow system capable of almost any impact point OR only if I have perfect shot placement?”

Bowhunting is 100% equivalent to what happens at impact. And, how much penetration your arrow achieves will increase your success. 

ranch fairy troy fowler holding redfish
Troy Fowler, AKA The Ranch Fairy.
diy lighted nocks

How to make your own lighted nocks for bowhunting

Ever wanted to make your own lighted nocks instead of spending a small fortune on the ones in the store or online? Well, I am going to show you step-by-step how to make your own lighted nocks for bowhunting.

Advantages of lighted nocks

Bowhunters understand that arrows and broadheads can be expensive. On top of that, you never want to lose the animal you just shot.

Now, if you lose your broadhead, your arrow, and your quarry, this can cause full-blown bowhunter’s depression.

That’s where lighted nocks come in.

diy lighted nock finished product

When you get finished, you’ll have something that looks like a regular arrow nock, but when the string impacts it, it will light up. Then, with a little pull back on the nock, you will be able to turn it off… all for about $2.50 cents each!

They can help you not only find your arrow in low light conditions, but in the event that you don’t get a pass-through shot, you will be able to get a better visual on where your deer or other game runs after impact.

For those of you who film your hunts, lighted nocks can also help you see the point of impact and other shot details upon video playback.

What you’ll need to get started making your own lighted nocks

There a few basic things you’ll need to get started making your own homemade lighted nocks:

  • Bobber lights (search for “bobber lights” on Amazon)
  • Arrow nocks (NAP and Carbon Express Launchpad precision nocks both sell nocks with a diameter large enough to house most bobber lights. They also tend to have a longer shaft, which gives you more room to house the bobber light).
  • Super glue
  • Sand paper (100-grit works great)
  • PVC pipe cutters or box cutter blade

Time needed: 2 hours

Step-by-step instructions to make your own lighted nocks:

  1. Remove (cut off) the back of an existing nock

    So the first thing we want to do is remove the back of an existing nock with the pvc pipe cutters. Be sure to cut evenly cut all the way around so there’s not a burr on it (if you get a burr, you can use the sandpaper to smooth it out).

    cutting lighted arrow nock with pvc cutters

  2. Be sure the end of the cut nock fits into the arrow shaft

    Once you have cut the end off of this nock, be sure it fits in shaft snugly. If you have a burr from cutting it, use the sandpaper to smooth it out.

    You want this part to be a tight fit in the arrow shaft, because whenever you get this inserted, you don’t want it to move back and forth when you’re pulling on the back of the full nock.

    making sure bottom of nock fits snugly in arrow

  3. Super glue the bobber light bottom into the back of the cut nock

    Put some super glue on the bottom end of the bobber light battery. Slowly insert the bottom of the bobber light into the cut nock.

    gluing end of bobber light into arrow nock

  4. Seal the bottom of bottom end of nock

    Put a small bead of super glue on the open end of the cut nock to seal it. You can then set that bottom onto a paper plate to let it dry (2 hours).

    sealing end of homemade lighted nock

  5. Super glue lighted end of bobber light into the full arrow nock

    Carefully put a bead of super glue aright around the top of the lighted part of the bobber light.

    Be careful not to get glue in between the lighted portion and the battery part of the bobber light. (This would glue the two parts together and prevent the light from coming on when the string impacts the nock). 

    When finished, let that part dry 2 hours.

    super gluing bobber light to insert into arrow nock

  6. Be sure a regular nock will twist easily inside arrow shaft

    BEFORE inserting the finished lighted nocks into the shaft, take one of your nocks that does not have a bobber light in it yet and be sure that when you insert it into your arrow, that you can still twist/move it back and forth fairly easily.

    If it’s too stiff to move/twist, then take your sandpaper and lightly sand around the long part that goes into the arrow shaft (NOT the cut end) until it moves well enough for you to be able twist it fairly easily with your fingers.

    sanding the bottom of lighted nock

  7. Align nock with arrow fletchings

    If you use a rest that requires your fletchings to be pointed a certain direction, be sure you insert the nock in such a way that you will achieve the proper alignment of your arrow with your rest.

    aligning diy lighted nock with arrow shaft

  8. Insert finished nock into arrow shaft

    Once both ends of the lighted nock have dried, and you’ve also sanded the light nocks well enough for the string end of your nocks to move/twist easily, insert the lighted nock into your arrow shaft.

    inserting homemade lighted nock into arrow shaft

  9. Test and shoot

    Once you have inserted the nock into the shaft, test it by pressing on it to turn the light on, and then untwist the nock until it turns off. Then you’re ready to shoot!

    (NOTE: you may need to do some fine tuning of your site, as the added weight at the end of the arrow may slightly impact your current bow site settings.

    pressing end of homemade lighted nock

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Make a tangle-free pull-up rope for your bow here!

DIY lighted arrow nocks: Conclusion

We hope that you have fun (and saving some money) making your own lighted arrow nocks. They will help you have a better visual on your arrow and/or wild game on your next bowhunting adventure.

If you’d like to watch a video of this DIY lighted nock process, check this out.

If you are hunting whitetail deer, mule deer, elk or any other game animal, be sure to keep honing your bowhunting skills and we hope you put a hole N1!

(P.S., if you liked this DIY project, check out my DIY deer mineral recipe how to article as well as my DIY euro mount instructions!)

diy lighted nocks shining while in target

The lighted nocks worked great and they fly great too! You can check out the below video for more help on making your own lighted nocks!

buck in velvet staring at trail camera

Trail Camera Tips | How To Set Up Trail Cams For Big Buck Intel

If you want to find an early chink in the armor of a buck cast a wide net. Trail cameras are a great way to do just that.

When it comes to trail cameras, there are definitely many options these days. But even after you pick one, there can be lots of questions…

  • How do you use trail cameras to their potential so that you can get pictures bucks frequenting your hunting property?
  • What is the best time of year to start mounting trail cameras?
  • Are there some strategies that work best for locating target bucks?
  • What is the best way to mount a trail camera?

If you are looking for some answers to these questions, read on, we have some great trail camera tips for you!

man mounting a trail camera to a tree

Buying a trail camera is only the first step to capturing buck activity on camera. Below, learn some tips on how to set them up!

You have a trail camera… now what?

When it comes to putting out trail cameras, I always start a little earlier than most people. But, it’s understandable that not all hunters want to waste batteries and time going to check them.

So, if you are already very familiar with the property you intend to hunt and have an idea of the summer patterns of the bucks on that property, you could wait until late July or early August.  

Trail Camera mounting tip #1 Hot zones are Bedding and Feeding Areas

As I have learned more and more about deer hunting – and more specifically, buck behavior – it has become clear that it’s imperative to determine where bucks are bedding and feeding.

So, how can you set up the trail camera to get daylight pictures of those bucks?

Well, once you have an idea of where they are bedding and feeding, set up your trail cameras on routes that deer take to and from these areas until you begin to get daylight pictures of bucks.  

Getting these pictures may be easier if you hunt near agriculture such as corn, soybeans, sorghum, etc. than if you are hunting large stands of timber or hardwoods.

trail camera picture of big buck in velvet

Locating bedding and feeding areas are the first step to identifying the travel routes that bucks are using to move between the two.

If you only hunt large forested areas, then you might want to focus on open areas in the timber that have a lot of previous deer sign.

Another thing to focus on in these types of forested areas is browse pressure on native vegetation. For example, if you look closely, you may be able to see the tops of some of the plants and vegetation that have been nipped off.  If there is too much browse pressure, then you might need to use a supplemental food source or deer mineral until deer season (if it is legal in your area).

Learn how to make your own Euro mount: It’s easy!

Set up cameras near scrapes

Another way to get great early season bucks on camera is to get trailcam pictures near mock scrapes or active scrapes from last season.  I look for open areas or trails that might have a brushy limb or vine hanging over bare ground or low vegetation. 

I’ve got some great video of a target buck tending a scrape and chasing another 3-year-old buck away from it.  These are the types of areas I will key in on and look for locations to put deer stands in hopes of taking a successful shot on a mature whitetail.

buck working scrape
buck working scrape
buck working scrape
Scapes are a great place to capture buck activity with your trail cameras.

Then, I might set up a scrape dripper in hopes of increasing the buck activity in that location. If the bucks and does are already using a scrape now they will more than likely continue to use it during the season. 

I have seen as many as 20 open scrapes on a 300 yd trail that led from bedding to food.  Some bucks will travel up to three square miles for a safe food source.  The bucks on that particular scrape line were bedding 1,000 yards away and traveling almost every night to and from that food source to bed. 

Put in the extra effort

If you want to your trailcam strategy to yield the best intel possible, you need to be willing to get out of your comfort zone and do some scouting off the road. Some of the best sign and bedding areas are off the road a good bit, but may be closer than you think. 

I have cut through 10 yards of thick brush and vegetation off a main trail and all of the sudden, boom… a big buck travel corridor!  If you find water or a swamp, even better.  Now you have a funnel, bedding, and a water source.

Deer are edge creatures, so if you find where the terrain transitions from hard woods or pines to swamp or thickets, then you should find good sign, or at least some type of deer trail.

When I’m scouting, I look for droppings, deer tracks and old rubs. Once you practice looking for these long enough, you will begin to get an eye for a good place to hunt or hang a trail camera.

buck rub on a tree

Rubs and other buck sign are good locations to consider mounting a trail camera.

Swampy areas…

If you hunt swamps like I do in the South, then you might feel overwhelmed by the amount of water. But, deer like to bed in swampy areas because it is cooler, and they can detect predators farther away.   

A lot of times, aerial pictures taken when there is still foliage on the trees makes it impossible to see these deer trails coming in and out of a swampy area. So, because pines and hardwoods hold their foliage longer, pictures taken during Winter or before Spring green-up will show transition areas better. 

aerial map with foliage
winter aerial map
As you can see in the aerial photos above, the picture on the right (winter) makes it easier to identify transition areas that are great locations to mount trail cameras.
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If you can only find does, keep looking, because the bucks will be nearby within a couple hundred yards. 

Water, funnels and fences

Another way to use aerial maps to hang trail cameras is to look for tree lines and natural funnels. 

Agriculture, fence lines, and water all make great natural funnels for deer to travel.  Deer do not feel as comfortable going across an open field, through water, or over a tall fence.

While deer can jump over or go under just about anything, they will default to openings in fence lines.

When it comes to water, I have seen deer chase through two feet of swamp water, but they would much rather go around it if they can.  

deer trail around edge of swamp

The “diamond in the rough” in swampy areas are trails in the mud coming in and out of the swamp as deer will often skirt around the edges of water.

Field Edges and corners

Field edges and corners are also great places to hang trail cameras. 

Deer will come out of just about anywhere if you have a good stand of bedding area along a field, but for some reason, they seem to prefer coming out of the corners.

On one of my hunting properties, there is a corner of a field that also has a water source that deer will skirt around.  This area makes for an awesome trail camera spot. In one pre-season, I have gotten pictures of 10 different bucks coming back to bed. 

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If you are having trouble getting daylight pictures of bucks, try glassing the field and see where they are coming out at in the afternoon. 

I have also seen bucks come out of the middle of a strip of trees off a field.  It all just depends on where they are bedding, and you will not know that unless you watch where they come out at in the afternoon or go back to in the morning. 

two bucks at feeder
transition areas for trail camera placement
night time picture of buck on field edge
Supplemental food sources, transition areas and field edges and corners are all good spots to consider mounting trail cameras to capture buck activity.

Cellular trail cams… a game changer

If baiting is not legal in your area, cellular cameras are a great option if you do not want to intrude on the area once it is set up. There are certainly huge advantages to not disturbing or leaving unnecessary scent in the area you are hoping to hunt.

Cell cameras allow you to wait until you see the buck you want using the area before going in for the kill.

There are new guidelines out now for the Boone and Crockett club that you cannot use a cell camera to help you kill a buck that meets their scoring requirements if you want it entered in the record books.  The Pope & Young Club has also updated its guidelines regarding the use of cellular trail cameras as it pertains to fair chase.

If you are like most people, you probably do not have booners running around and may not necessarily care about making the record books. 

Go heavy? Learn all about high FOC in bowhunting!

I typically run three cell cameras and eight regular cameras.  I use my cell cameras mainly to tell me when it is time to go refill the feed.  In my opinion, you can pattern deer just as well with standard trail cameras. 

You should, however, be more careful when you check the regular trails cameras.  Typically, I like to wait until around noon to check my trail cams, or I check them late at night after I know deer are already in the field feeding. 

I shot my biggest buck in 2019 after using a regular trail camera.  I noticed he was coming in the second day after I put out corn and deer lure, and I was able to take him just as planned. 

Wondering about your arrow’s FOC? Use this free calculator!

How to set up the trail camera | Best practices

When I set up a new trail camera, I mount it to a sturdy tree, at a height of about 3 feet off the ground. Or, I will set it up at a height where it can cover the most field of view. 

I make sure to clear vegetation and try and get a northern camera direction unless it has a lot of overhanging foliage or forest canopy to shield the sun.  Facing the trailcam East or West can cause the sunlight to interfere with the pictures as well as producing false triggers that result in unwanted pictures.

Mounting Tip: you can use is using your smart phone camera and flipping it to selfie mode.  Put the back of your phone on the trail camera, and you can get a good idea of what your camera will be seeing.

I also hang cameras parallel to the trail to catch the movement as well. 

You do not want to face the camera directly across the trail or you will end up getting pictures of just tails or brow tines. 

As deer season gets closer, you can also use video determine the direction the bucks are traveling to the bait sites or how they are using travel corridors.  (when using still shots only, it can be hard to tell which directing deer are moving). 

If you are trying to save your trail camera’s battery, I would set it to a three-picture burst and then switch to video when the season starts.

deer scratching ear with hoof
trail camera mounted to old wood frame
trail camera mounted to a tree
Setting up trail cameras doesn’t have to be a head scratcher. Mount them to a sturdy tree or structure, approximately 3 feet off the ground or where you can get a wide field of view.
Know all the differences between whitetail deer and mule deer? Check this out!

Trail Camera Tips Conclusion

As you can tell, an effective trailcam strategy involves planning and attention to detail. Hopefully, you have learned some tips that will help you become a more successful hunter. Not only that, but you never know what unexpected pictures of rare things you might get on your trailcam.

Here’s to great trail camera pics and even better pics of you sitting behind a trophy buck!

If you have any more questions or would like to follow along this deer season, I am active on social media:

I use the HuntWise App and my username is jrwilliamsjr. 

On Instagram, you can find me under aon_whitetail. 

My email address is johnrwilliams@valdosta.edu if you would like to contact me there.  I am currently in school to become a wildlife biologist.

picture of john williams with a big buck
John Williams